What's your experience with crooked UHMW? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Default What's your experience with crooked UHMW?

As facing for my router table fence, I ordered a 3/4 x 4 x 48 piece of UHMW from Peachtree and it arrived with a 3/16 bow from end to end and a 4 degree bevel on one edge. Not happy with that, I contacted customer service and was told that no piece of UHMW is straight but the material will take the shape of that to which it is bolted. I was instructed to set the piece on a flat surface and essentially wait for it to conform.

Not blessed with great patience, I chose to clamp it in straight cauls and set it in bright sun on a very warm day. That took part of the bow out and I followed up the next day by doing that again. Then I set the material on edge on the router table over night with the belly of the bow facing up.

That seems to have taken the bow out of the material but there seems to be nothing I can do about the bevel except trim it off.

Your thoughts?

Last edited by 163481; 07-18-2015 at 12:02 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:02 PM
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Chuck, as they said the bow is not an issue but the bevel is. Trimming off the bevel should only cost you about 1/32"; will that compromise your intended use? If so send it back.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:06 PM
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Isn't that material kinda soft for a router table face ? I know it's nice and slippery ,but scratches far to easily
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
will that compromise your intended use?
Mike: Not in the least. My fence is 34" long and I intend to cut two 17" pieces and bevel the ends to 45 degrees. Then I'll slot them for an adjustment range of 1-1/2" each for a 3" total bit clearance. Losing a little off the width of the material won't make any difference in functionality.

The only issue was a gap at the table top that could allow workpieces to slip underneath.

RainMan: I have no experience yet with a router table and was emulating what I've seen in some commercially-available fences. Maybe this was an expensive mistake...I'll just have to see.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:22 PM
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Chuck, the Router Workshop fences are one piece and built from HDPE. The "Keep it simple" method works very well but I certainly understand that many prefer the sliding face fences.

On a side note you can see the broken half of a large floor broom that I use to sweep off my table; I keep the other half by my table saw. Waste not, want not.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfchuck View Post
Mike: Not in the least. My fence is 34" long and I intend to cut two 17" pieces and bevel the ends to 45 degrees. Then I'll slot them for an adjustment range of 1-1/2" each for a 3" total bit clearance. Losing a little off the width of the material won't make any difference in functionality.

The only issue was a gap at the table top that could allow workpieces to slip underneath.

RainMan: I have no experience yet with a router table and was emulating what I've seen in some commercially-available fences. Maybe this was an expensive mistake...I'll just have to see.
Sorry Chuck I'm a slow reader and thought you were using it for the table top.

Could you reinforce the back side with a piece of hardwood or angle iron?

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:34 PM
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UHMW creeps over time and under pressure to deform from its original shape. In a sliding fence the pressure of the bolts that hold it to the main body may cause it to creep but it may not be enough to affect routing. I've seen pieces that were under high sustained pressures on trucks that had deformed considerably. You can google and read up on it and may be able to find tables on pressure and temperature to predict movement.

It isn't necessarily the best choice for a RT fence IMO. For cost and durability it's hard to beat counter top laminate glued onto mdf or good quality ply.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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I certainly understand that many prefer the sliding face fences.
I just ran into that situation yesterday, Mike. I was trying to slot the 5 x 3-1/2 piece of 1/2 ply on which the bit guard is mounted and discovered (before I turned on the machine) that the workpiece would be largely unsupported by the fence. I had to lay out the work on a bigger piece of ply, push the fence out of the way and use a clamping miter gauge to do the slotting then cut out the piece on the TS. You can see the relationship of the width of the piece to the bit opening of the fence in the attached pic.



In case you're wondering, the T-track is just sitting on top of the fence...it's not mounted yet.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfchuck View Post
I just ran into that situation yesterday, Mike. I was trying to slot the 5 x 3-1/2 piece of 1/2 ply on which the bit guard is mounted and discovered (before I turned on the machine) that the workpiece would be largely unsupported by the fence. I had to lay out the work on a bigger piece of ply, push the fence out of the way and use a clamping miter gauge to do the slotting then cut out the piece on the TS. You can see the relationship of the width of the piece to the bit opening of the fence in the attached pic.



In case you're wondering, the T-track is just sitting on top of the fence...it's not mounted yet.
Chuck was your T-track predrilled or did you do it ?

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RainMan1 View Post
Could you reinforce the back side with a piece of hardwood or angle iron?
It'll be mounted to the fence, which is made of 3/4 ply.

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