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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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Default Help with router and table

Hello, my name is David and this is my first post.

I just purchased a Ryobi rel180pl plunge router. I also purchased the Ryobi beginner router table. I set it all up and have done some things that turned out fairly well but I have a few questions.

1. When using a table router, how often do you need to adjust the height of the bit? Setting the depth of my router while on the table is very awkward and almost impossible.

2. When the router depth is set as deep (or high since it is on a table) as it will go but the bit does not clear the top of the table and I have to raise it up half and inch. It almost takes 3 hands to get the bit to the correct height. Fine adjustments are practically impossible. Is this normal?

I am worried that when I get to the point where I am doing more things like joints and such that not having the ability to precisely set the height of the bit is going to hinder my ability to create adequate shaping. I believe the router’s bit dept while not on the table will be easy to do but this router definitely seems like it wasn’t meant for table use.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

David
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 01:38 AM
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Hello David and welcome to the Router forums. Don't have a Ryobi router, so I can't help you there, but one of our members will surely have a answer.




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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 06:38 AM
 
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Default Help with router and table

David welcome to the forum. What you are experiencing is what we or most of us have experienced in our beginnings. When starting out with power tools we tend to buy what we can afford and don't get to excited about all the expensive stuff out there. Well if you get hooked on woodworking, give it up your going to spend some money.

To answer your questions. You'll raise the bit as often as you change the profile you are cutting. They are a bear to adjust there's no getting around that. I had a Hitachi plunge router in a Wolfcraft table for awhile and it was a chore to adjust the height. What I usually did way lay the table on it side. Seemed to help. I would probably say plunge routers for convience sake anyway don't work very well in table application. But you have a router and a table so have fun with it and don't be discouraged. Whatever you do don't get frustrated with the setup, that's how you learn. Forums are good places to get ideas, opinions and advice. Here is a pic of my newest router table. Porter Cable 3 1/4hp router with Jessem lift and later added the INCRA router fence. All that was a little over a grand. Cabinet was the cheapest part as most of the material was free.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 07:15 AM
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Hi David

If you don't make it easy to use you will not use it...
It wil become just one more tool in the shop taking up room.
It's a great tool and it needs to move up and down easy, not by to much ..

I would suggest you put the router table you now have to one side and make a simple box router table, (table top type box) then pickup a drop in plate and mount the router to it, you can also remove the springs if you want ,it will make it a bit easyer to move the router up or down in the box...or you can just pop it out and set it up then drop it back in the table top...

Here's some links that will help

http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_18.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94331
http://www.routerworkshop.com/mark1.html?list=R600--


AFter you have used it for a bit then you want to make a floor model type...to hold a bit router ( 3 1/4HP ) type .


===========
Quote:
Originally Posted by djonesax
Hello, my name is David and this is my first post.

I just purchased a Ryobi rel180pl plunge router. I also purchased the Ryobi beginner router table. I set it all up and have done some things that turned out fairly well but I have a few questions.

1. When using a table router, how often do you need to adjust the height of the bit? Setting the depth of my router while on the table is very awkward and almost impossible.

2. When the router depth is set as deep (or high since it is on a table) as it will go but the bit does not clear the top of the table and I have to raise it up half and inch. It almost takes 3 hands to get the bit to the correct height. Fine adjustments are practically impossible. Is this normal?

I am worried that when I get to the point where I am doing more things like joints and such that not having the ability to precisely set the height of the bit is going to hinder my ability to create adequate shaping. I believe the router’s bit dept while not on the table will be easy to do but this router definitely seems like it wasn’t meant for table use.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

David



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Here is table model number...
a25rt01

Here is the router model number...
RE180PL

I tried pasting links to sites with specs but the system wouldnt allow it. Why can you guys post links but not me? Am I doing something wrong?

Don’t get me wrong, I love the router and table. It's been awesome. Since I bought it a couple weeks ago, I have build a Red Oak 6ft long sofa table and matching speaker stands. I love what I can do with it. I used a keyhole bit to create a channel for the hiding the speaker wire in the stands and used the round over and cove bits for extra detail in different places. My goal was to match my current furniture, which seemed to work out good.

It’s just that when I encounter things like I have encountered. They don’t seem right to me and I start thinking I may have bought a lemon but don’t have enough experience to know better and don’t have anyone that knows anything about this stuff to ask. Until I found this forum....

Would I have been better off purchasing a fixed base router for the table? The first set I purchased was a router and table combo from Ryobi but I took it back because I felt like it was worth spending an extra 80 bucks for a better router and a better table.


Man, I have so many questions, I apologize.

So here are my questions now...

1. Can I remove the springs from the rel180pl router?
2. How do I accurately set the depth of the router when it is mounted to a table? The thickness of the table prevents the bit from achieving full depth and I have to pull the bit up (which doesn’t seem safe to me) just to clear the table. Should I make a jig for measurement or something?
3. If I have to purchase a bit extension for $60.00 would I be better off just taking my router back to Home Depot and purchasing a better one, or will I need a bit extension for that too?
4. I many have an opportunity to purchase a craftsman table router and router with bits for $75. If it is a decent fixed base router should I buy it and use it in place of my plunge? I guess what I am asking is would a fixed base router be a better fit for a router table? I could keep the plunge for table free operations.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 12:00 PM
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Did you take the plastic base plate off the router base? That will add some height to the bit. It is not necessary to drop the bit as deep in the collet as it will go. You can lift it up.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 12:09 PM
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Hi David

"I tried pasting links to sites with specs but the system wouldnt allow it"
It's a SPAM block thing built into the system, you will need to post 10 items b/4 you can post a URL Link ...

Table
http://hardwareaisle.thisoldhouse.co...ter-table.html
Router
http://products.howstuffworks.com/ry...ter-review.htm
=========

"Would I have been better off purchasing a fixed base router for the table?"
Yes,,,,, BUT I would suggest a combo set in that way you have the best of both worlds.....the Sears Craftsman 2 HP VS,soft start,and you adjust the router height from the top of the table with a long Allen Hex Key , all for about 100.00 bucks.

As for the table make your own, or buy a top from Rockler for about 150.oo or so then but in on some saw horses or just about any cabinet you have.

The router table you have is a pain in the neck,,as you now know it's nice looking but ....

Many things come into play with type of table,,it's hard to get the bit in place, then it's hard to adjust the bit, you can only use the small router bits, the key word for this table is ("beginner's" model )

-----------
1. Can I remove the springs from the rel180pl router?= Yes but why do that.

2. How do I accurately set the depth of the router when it is mounted to a table? = see the note about the Craftsman router combo.

The thickness of the table prevents the bit from achieving full depth and I have to pull the bit up (which doesn’t seem safe to me) just to clear the table. = same as number two and this is why you would want to use a drop in plate in the table top..

Should I make a jig for measurement or something? = no,, just pickup some brass bars for that job.

3. If I have to purchase a bit extension for $60.00 would I be better off just taking my router back to Home Depot and purchasing a better one, or will I need a bit extension for that too?
= you don't need the extension the norm but they do come in handy,,,see number two again...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...cemldffidflk.0

http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView....router%20table

============

Quote:
Originally Posted by djonesax
Here is table model number...
a25rt01

Here is the router model number...
RE180PL

I tried pasting links to sites with specs but the system wouldnt allow it. Why can you guys post links but not me? Am I doing something wrong?

Don’t get me wrong, I love the router and table. It's been awesome. Since I bought it a couple weeks ago, I have build a Red Oak 6ft long sofa table and matching speaker stands. I love what I can do with it. I used a keyhole bit to create a channel for the hiding the speaker wire in the stands and used the round over and cove bits for extra detail in different places. My goal was to match my current furniture, which seemed to work out good.

It’s just that when I encounter things like I have encountered. They don’t seem right to me and I start thinking I may have bought a lemon but don’t have enough experience to know better and don’t have anyone that knows anything about this stuff to ask. Until I found this forum....

Would I have been better off purchasing a fixed base router for the table? The first set I purchased was a router and table combo from Ryobi but I took it back because I felt like it was worth spending an extra 80 bucks for a better router and a better table.


Man, I have so many questions, I apologize.

So here are my questions now...

1. Can I remove the springs from the rel180pl router?
2. How do I accurately set the depth of the router when it is mounted to a table? The thickness of the table prevents the bit from achieving full depth and I have to pull the bit up (which doesn’t seem safe to me) just to clear the table. Should I make a jig for measurement or something?
3. If I have to purchase a bit extension for $60.00 would I be better off just taking my router back to Home Depot and purchasing a better one, or will I need a bit extension for that too?
4. I many have an opportunity to purchase a craftsman table router and router with bits for $75. If it is a decent fixed base router should I buy it and use it in place of my plunge? I guess what I am asking is would a fixed base router be a better fit for a router table? I could keep the plunge for table free operations.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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AxlMyk,

My router doesnt have a plastic base on it. I did look for a removable base though.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Bob,

I thought that if I removed the springs maybe I could adjust the depth easier. The problem I have is that the springs are so tight that if I push up on the router I will lift up the table.

I though that by purchasing a plunge router that I was getting the best of both worlds but now I see that that was not the case. There seems to be a place for both. I was under the impression the since it was a plunge, i could just set it at max dept and have a fixed... All though I can do that it makes it too hard to adjust the depth for table use.

So my questions now...

1. So now if I understand all this correctly, I should take back my Ryobi and purchase a Combo Router that can have the height adjusted from the top of the table. I plan on using the router on a table more that free hand.

2. With a fixed based router can I set what the zero depth or max depth on the gauge should be after I install it on the table? Other wise reading the dept would take some simple math right?

3. I found a website that for the Ryobi Beginner Router Table it seems to list every craftsman model number except for the one you have suggested which is 17543 at sears. It does support these...
models – 17504, 17505, 17506, 17508, 17510, 17511, 17515, 17517, 17533 combo, 24833 combo, 27500, 26921
Do you think that the 17543 is just the newer version of the 17533 Combo and it would fit my table just fine?

4. I realize that the table is a beginner table and could be better but the table seems to suit me fine. Do you think I'll be able to get to the height adjustment of the craftsman router from the top of this table or will I need a new table too?

Thanks for all the help,

David
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 04:36 PM
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Hi David

1. Yes, I would ,you don't need to buy the craftsman they have may combo setups.

2. Most fixed based routers don't have a depth gauge so to speak because you don't need it on the router table,,

3. the 17543 is a newer model and I'm almost sure it will work for you but if not it's not a big deal to drill some holes to mount it.


4. if you still want to use the table you now have I would suggest you lift it in some way with 4 x 4 blocks or what ever , to get more room under the top for the router to move up or down down and to pull the router motor out of the bottom side when it bolted down like it should be to the work bench..you don't want it to tip over when you are using it and you should not flip it on it's side to get the motor out..
Pulling it out the bottom will make it easy to install a router bit.


5. with craftmans you will need to drill a hole in the top to get to the device to move it up or down from the top side...


Quote:
Originally Posted by djonesax
Bob,

I thought that if I removed the springs maybe I could adjust the depth easier. The problem I have is that the springs are so tight that if I push up on the router I will lift up the table.
Hi David



======
I though that by purchasing a plunge router that I was getting the best of both worlds but now I see that that was not the case. There seems to be a place for both. I was under the impression the since it was a plunge, i could just set it at max dept and have a fixed... All though I can do that it makes it too hard to adjust the depth for table use.

So my questions now...

1. So now if I understand all this correctly, I should take back my Ryobi and purchase a Combo Router that can have the height adjusted from the top of the table. I plan on using the router on a table more that free hand.

2. With a fixed based router can I set what the zero depth or max depth on the gauge should be after I install it on the table? Other wise reading the dept would take some simple math right?

3. I found a website that for the Ryobi Beginner Router Table it seems to list every craftsman model number except for the one you have suggested which is 17543 at sears. It does support these...
models – 17504, 17505, 17506, 17508, 17510, 17511, 17515, 17517, 17533 combo, 24833 combo, 27500, 26921
Do you think that the 17543 is just the newer version of the 17533 Combo and it would fit my table just fine?

4. I realize that the table is a beginner table and could be better but the table seems to suit me fine. Do you think I'll be able to get to the height adjustment of the craftsman router from the top of this table or will I need a new table too?

Thanks for all the help,

David



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


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