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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Plastic laminate

Is there a trick to applying plastic laminate. I used the explosive Weldwood type glue because I heard that is good. I put it on both surfaces and waited until it was dry to the touch.

I used a J roller and rolled it a lot.

A month or two later, part of the laminate came up, making me unhappy.

Maybe I should have applied the two surfaces when the adhesive was a little wetter?

Thanks

Steve Bolton
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 07:53 PM
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Steve, laminate should be dry to touch when you put them together. Might not have got enough glue on them.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 09:05 PM
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Steve, as Corey has stated, dry to the touch is the norm. I'm not familiar with you're particular adhesive but assume that it is a "normal" contact adhesive. Clean, dry dust-free surfaces are of course essential using a liberal amount of adhesive well spread. I personally use the gel type contact adhesive, it lasts longer in the can and is far less messy to handle. Using dowels to centre the laminate and removing them one at a time as you press the laminate down makes for an accurate fit without air bubbles.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Harry, do you have a brand mae for the gel type? I don't think I am familar with them.

Any suggestions as to the best contact cement? Oil based? Water based?

thank

sb
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S Bolton
Harry, do you have a brand mae for the gel type? I don't think I am familar with them.

Any suggestions as to the best contact cement? Oil based? Water based?

thank

sb
This is what I use here in Australia, it's solvent based, I once tried water based contact adhesive and it was a dismal failure, no wonder they stopped making it!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 10:08 PM
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Steve, another thing that might hinder contact cement is temperature. If you were working with the temp. under a certain point the cement will not adhere correctly. I'm not sure what it is, but it should say on the can directions.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2008, 01:51 AM
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HI Steve

Next time give this a trick a try,,sand the Plastic laminate with 60 grit sand paper,,,(besure to blow off the dust b/4 you put on the glue or use a tack rag) because it's plastic it's sealed in a way, by sanding the laminate it will give it a place to hold on too. (cross hatch sanding works best or in a circle )

I just about always use 3M #77 or #90 ,it's in a spray can and is easy to put down...no roller/brush needed just a J-roller once the parts are in place,plus I don't wait till it's tacky ,this gives me time to move the stock around and line it up.


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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2008, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Will do. Makes sense. How warm does it have to be in my shop? I use the explosive stuff because I hear it is better? True?

SB
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2008, 09:45 AM
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Many years ago I installed a good deal of plastic laminate using contact cement. What worked best for me was to apply the adhesive to both surfaces,allow to dry and then apply a second coat. Never had any problems after doing it that way,several before.

Regards

Jerry
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2008, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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After you apply the second coat, how long do you wait?

sb
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