First mount your router.... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Cool First mount your router....

As long ago as 2005, Forum members have posted issues related to the first task in Table-mounted Routing - namely, mounting the Router to the Table. My installation of the Sears Craftsman 320-24605 Fixed Based Router to the Accessory Table of the Sears Craftsman 315-276670 Jobsite Table Saw was not as simple as out-of-the-box. There were no instructions in either product handbook! However in the end it was straightforward and been very satisfactory in service. I submit these observations / tricks to facilitate any who may wish to try a similar installation. The principles may well to installations with other products combinations.
(1) Make sure all power is OFF.
(2) The Accessory Table has several holes to suit various router baseplate connections. Select the appropriate holes as follows:
a. extract the Mounting Plate [#60] (sub-base) from the router kit
b. fit a throatplate over the Accessory Table router port. Pick the throatplate which has the same diameter as the centre hole in the Mounting Plate (1.25")
c. Place the Mounting Plate over the Throat oriented as if it were to be mounted onto the Router; the counter-sink for a bushing is on the upper face of the Mounting Plate. Align the throat hole centres using, for example, a bushing, or some scrunched-up newspaper.
d. Rotate the Mounting Plate around the throat hole centres until three holes in the Mounting Plate align with three holes in the Accessory Table.
e. Mark the selected three holes in the Accessory Table with chalk, stickers, or similar. I find it's easy to forget which I intend to use
(3) Select Router orientation, The six mounting holes in the Router base matching the three holes in the Accessory Table provide a theoretical six orientations of the Router under the Accessory Table. I took the following requirements into consideration in picking my preferred orientation:
a. Installation shall enable the Accessory Table to be butting up to the table saw structure {for maximum versatility}
b. The extraction pipe shall have unimpeded straight-line assess to the extraction port;
c. The "power cord" shall have unimpeded straight-line assess to the "power outlet";
d. the "Spindle Lock" shall be accessible while wrenching the Collet Nut;
e. the On/Off Switch shall be accessible
Consideration of the above eliminated 5 of the 6 potential orientations; the one remaining satisfied all the requirements.
The Winner! defining standing at the Right end of the Jobsite Table facing the Accessory Table with saw beyond as 12 o'clock {feet by the wheels}, the power cord emerges at about 4 o'clock.
Do not bolt up the Router to the accessory table just yet!
(4) The Router features depth-adjustment by means of a wrench applied to a hexagonal drive socket on the face of the base. Use of this feature requires a hole to be drilled through the Accessory Table.
a. after selecting the Router orientation at Step 3 above, rotate the Mounting Plate (sub-base) so as to co-locate the hex socket in the router base with its access thru-hole in the Mounting Plate (sub-base).
b. Use the access thru-hole in the Mounting Plate (sub-base) as a template to mark the required position of the thru-hole in the Accessory Table.
c. The Accessory Table is made from aluminium, so is relatively easy to machine. Centre-pop, drop of lubricant, 5/32" pilot drill, 5/16" finish drill.
The resulting hole kisses the counter-sink of its adjacent Router-bolting hole, and JUST misses a cast-in stiffening strut in the Accessory Table. Beautifully satisfying! Thank you Craftsman!
(5) Install the Fixed Base to the underside of the Accessory Table. If you have a Small Helper who can sit under the table saw to hold/carry the total weight of Base + Router, then the Base can be installed with the Router Motor attached. Otherwise, detach the router motor and fit just the Fixed Base. the lower weight greatly reduces the risk of shearing or stripping the installation bolts. The router motor can easily be re-attached once the Fixed Base is securely in place.
Enjoy!
kp91, rcp612, TwoSkies57 and 3 others like this.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 07:45 PM
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A good write up, Simon.

Thanks for posting that.

James
Sydney, Australia
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I don't mind if other members disagree with my comments.
I don't profess to know everything, and I may learn something new.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 08:25 PM
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Thanks.

Ross,
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia


Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

‘Members are requested to add a first name in their profile as we are a very friendly bunch here'.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw2170 View Post
A good write up, Simon.

Thanks for posting that.
Hello James. Thank you for your on-going encouragement.
Doing the initial work with the Saw Table & Router kit gave me a lot of satisfaction -
getting the write-up done, submitted and approved so quickly by you doubled it!
I've already had one 'like' and a 'Thanks' so I think the Forum is doing its job.

I am off work recuperating after a traffic accident. Hopefully I'll post a few more of my planned submissions during the coming weeks.
If I can't actually make any sawdust, at least I can write about it!
I have one hand (the Right one) in use at present, producing these articles may contribute good physiotherapy to get my left hand up and running again.

best wishes,

Simon
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 10:29 AM
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Simon ~ Very well thought out explanation. Thanks for taking the time to share this.

When you have recuperated from your traffic accident injuries, hopefully you will find time to share a photo or two.

Bob

Last edited by Web Shepherd; 09-08-2015 at 10:31 AM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 01:18 PM
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All great tips.

When I first installed my router into my MDF table, I used a piece of left over drawer front (Maple) as a trial template.
It turns out that I did get it right the first time.

Later, I used the same template for drilling for new positions. I'm now on my third position in the same MDF table.
The black plate on the router was of course removed for table mounting.
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  • Accident free since 10/27/12 at 3:58 pm.
  • Cursing free since 10/27/12 at 3:59 pm.
  • ...it happened in Everett, WA USA

Last edited by rwl7532; 09-08-2015 at 01:24 PM. Reason: To mention the removal of the router's plate.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Cool Once the Router is mounted, safety and convenience....

Here's the linkback to the first article:
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...ur-router.html
With this success behind me, it was tempting to make some sawdust straightaway. BUT
to avoid disappointment and frustration, there were a few steps to take first.
Note References marked [thus] refer to documents listed on my Router Forums biography page.
1) Power supply.
The Craftsman Table Saw power cord conveys electricity from a wall socket via a Master Switch to a single socket on the side of the cabinet <cabinet socket>. A second cord, plugging into this socket, conveys electricity to the table saw motor. Sears confirmed to me via the product website that the wiring of the cabinet socket was beefy enough to carry current for both the table saw and a ShopVac.
So I spent $5 and bought a 1-to-3 adapter. I plugged this into the cabinet socket. The three outlet sockets were then assigned to:- (i) the ShopVac (least accessible because always in use); (ii) the Router; (iii) the Table Saw (most accessible, since this plug has to be disconnected when the table saw is not in use). Now activating the Master Switch simultaneously powers on the plug-selected tools AND the suction

2) Power to Router
The Router has a "Live Tool Indicator" Light. Unfortunately this light points downwards, out of sight, when mounted on the Accessory Table. Happily I have a seldom-used folding shaving mirror, the frame of which is ferrous. The framework of the Table Saw, which lies below the Router, is also ferrous. With a couple of super-magnets (available in Canada from Lee Valley) I could locate and adjust the mirror so that it reflected the "Live Tool Indicator" Light upwards.

3) Router Safety
Sandor [5] stresses the importance of a safety guard. The Table Saw comes with a combined guard / suction connector for above-table work. The Router kit includes a suction connector for below-table work. Both of the connectors are of smaller diameter than the ShopVac hose. I bought a dedicated adapter that stays with the Accessory Table - I don't want it to stray when the ShopVac goes walk-about.
To minimize stress on the expensive translucent plastic Router parts, I first fit the adapter to the tool connector, then, with a little grease on the mating surface, bring the suction hose to the adapter.

4) Starting Pin
Number One of Bill Hyman's router accessories is a starting pin [1]. I found a perfect cotter-pin & nut combination in my box of bicycle spare parts. and thanks to Craftsman again, there is a wide selection of holes in the Accessory Table that can be used.

with the above in place, I felt confident to safely make some sawdust!

Last edited by SimonHartropp; 09-08-2015 at 02:46 PM. Reason: reference error n section 4)
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