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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Default drawer bit?

I am dragging my feet on my kitchen project, partially because I can't decide how I want to make the 17 drawers I need to make. I was going to use solid wood and a box joint, but am leaning towards 5/8ths ply and either Sommerfeld's Baby Lock miter bit or their drawer lock bit. Can anyone one weigh in on pros and cons of either of these bits?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dvto2 View Post
I am dragging my feet on my kitchen project, partially because I can't decide how I want to make the 17 drawers I need to make. I was going to use solid wood and a box joint, but am leaning towards 5/8ths ply and either Sommerfeld's Baby Lock miter bit or their drawer lock bit. Can anyone one weigh in on pros and cons of either of these bits?
I like the drawer lock bit, it is easy to set up and use on a router table..
I like 1/2" sides, 1/4" bottoms, and 3/4" drawer fronts. I make a drawer box out of the 1/2" plywood and 1/4" bottom then mount them into the cabinet on slides , then cut out the fronts and attach them after all the drawer boxes are set.

there are a lot of good threads here on making drawers, MT Stringer is the master look at his threads.

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 12:44 AM
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Herb what exactly is a lock bit? Does it make locking rabbet joints ?

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 02:19 AM
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Default lock miter bit

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Herb what exactly is a lock bit? Does it make locking rabbet joints ?
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Semipro, that image is what Sommerfeld calls the "lock miter bit". the Drawer lock bit looks like this:

Drawer Lock Joint Bit 2"CD,1/2"CL,1/2"SH
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 08:12 AM
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Semipro, that image is what Sommerfeld calls the "lock miter bit". the Drawer lock bit looks like this:

Drawer Lock Joint Bit 2"CD,1/2"CL,1/2"SH
@ David
Oops your right stand corrected LOL
Maybe next I will read the question right!
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Last edited by Semipro; 10-08-2015 at 08:18 AM.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 09:20 AM
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I agree with Herb David, 1/2" sides and back is more than strong enough for a kitchen drawer. 5/8 would be something you might make a shop drawer out of that has to pack a lot of weight.

Some, like myself, just make them on the TS where you rabbet the bottom and back and make horizontal and perpendicular grooves on the sides for the bottom and back to fit into.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 09:25 AM
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Is the front going to be the actual front or is there going to be a front glued to it which is typically how they are made. If this is the case I wouldn't use either I would do it a much simpler way.
1. Plane the wood down to 1/2 thick.
2. Route a 1/4" grove about 3/8" from the bottom edge so that the bottom material can slide in. You can route a long piece and cut to length.
3. At the back of both side pieces measure in about 1/2" or what ever just so the that the back piece is recessed a little and route a 1/2" slot so that the back material can slide down in.
4. Cut the front of the drawer the correct width that you want the drawer to be, taking into consideration the thickness of the sides In other words if the drawer is to be 12" wide and the material is 1/2 thick make the front piece 11' wide. This piece will be a butt fit between the sides.
5. Slide the back into place.
6. Slide the bottom into the grove of the sides and the back.
7. Slide the front into place and nail the front piece and the back piece between the two side pieces.

It sounds like a lot of steps but after you make one you will get the idea. Using this method you can knock a drawer together in about 5 minutes. If you are making multiple drawers the same size it's even easier. Once the box is complete glue the actual front over the box.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 09:32 AM
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I have 17 drawers to make and plan to use 1/2 baltic birch ply and the Drawer Lock Bit. I have a Rockler drawer lock bit. Here's a video. Pretty easy.
.

Here is the MLCS version, which is a much larger bit.
This video adds more detail, but the method is the same as the smaller Rockler bit.

Sommerfeld also has a bit like the MLCS, which you can set using their Easy-Set device. Here's a review of their Easy-Set jig, which uses stock thickness as the starting point for setting the bit height.
I like Sommerfeld bits.

Here is the freud version. Less expensive than the rest at about $35 on Amazon prime, but good quality bit. http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-240-2...rawer+lock+bit Picture below
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 10:19 AM
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Drawer lock joint bits do a good job and produce a strong joint. Be patient in setting the bit up and test it on scrap before using the drawer parts.
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