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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Default Ready to build the table

I have spent a few days researching and getting some good advice here and I plan to begin putting my table together this weekend. I am going to go simple for now to get rolling and figure out what is important to me and plan to build something full featured later. Also I am itching to get rolling on a project!

I have a few questions I would like to pose to the experts here.

1. Since I am in Houston my garage frequently gets to 100F with 80% humidity. If I use MDF for my table will it hold up? The Homedepot has MDF with Melamine on both sides would that help?

2. Space is at a premium since my garage is used for storage as well. I am thinking of attaching my table to my existing workbench with hinges but the top is almost 40" high. Will that be too high to be safe to work with? How easy is it to put screws into MDF?

3. I built an extremely sturdy frame for my portable poker table last year that I could use as a portable based instead. The frame is pretty large (6'x 3'). I expect my table top to be about 2' x 3'. Any ideas on how to attach it temporarily so I could easily take it apart?

4. My 3rd option is to build a simple frame from the many left over 2x3 and 2x4 and plywood I have laying around. If I do this I would like to put it on casters so I could easily move it around. Are tables with good locking casters a good idea? I am afraid it could be too wobbly.

5. Really silly question. Should I use my fixed based to mount to the table top or the plunge base? I have the PC 893 fixed / plunge combo and assumed it should be the fixed base but after searching around here it looks like some folks use the plunge base.

6. What do most people use to keep the fence square to the work surface? A long T-Square, 90 degree square or maybe embed a ruler in the table? I saw some stick on ruler tape as well but worried the work piece might catch on it.

Sorry for the long post of questions but I really appreciate the great ideas from the members here.

Any advice or comments is appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
1. Since I am in Houston my garage frequently gets to 100F with 80% humidity. If I use MDF for my table will it hold up? The Homedepot has MDF with Melamine on both sides would that help?
Mine didn't hold up.not even through the first summer. I used two mdf panels and hardboard. heat and humidity in houston screw everything up.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Yep I was afraid of that. I have some cheapo particle board cabinets that someone gave me about 15 years ago or so. I am embaressed to say that are still in the garage but have no structure left at all.

RISMN what kind of table do you use now?

I may need to go for a metal table.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 11:23 PM
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what kind of table do you use now?
I use a self made table
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-wo...html#post30682

My next table top wil be lighter so I can take it inside when I'm not using it.
It's th eonly way to keep things from warping around here.

Metal table may hold up to heat although not sure at this point(97-104 last two days) but they will rust here and they are too small space wise for my working habit and you will be locked in to the type of router plate you can use with them. also way too $$$$.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 11:36 PM
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Hi Roy

Just my 2 cents..

6. The fence doesn't need to be square with anything on the table top. You don't need to use a stick on ruler and it's best if you don't ,just a clean top will do the tick, I like the swing type fence....that's to say it has one pivot point and one one lock down screw..that hangs over the sides of the table top so you can clamp it in place if the need comes up...

5. use your fixed based ,that will let you use the plunge base for hand jobs.

4. keep it low to the ground, that's to say about 1/2" to 1" off the floor,tables with good locking casters are always good but sometimes they put the case to high, a flat stick under the wheels works very well...for a stop...and it's alot cheaper than locking casters and it will let you keep it low..

3. Knobs or home made wing nuts work well.

2. Keep it at 36" high or just a bit lower, MDF see number 1, don't hang it off the work bence, you want it to move outside or around the shop from time to time...

1. Because you are in Houston, I would suggest cabinet grade plywood, Birch it's the best, it's bit higher in price than the normal cabinet plywood but it's very stable, it also comes with Melamine on both sides, it also comes in 1 1/4" thick for counter tops, etc....
OR
Phenolic or Alum. tops are the best,they don't rust or bend but they are not cheap.
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...e-cabinet.html

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi...able&x=11&y=20

=========

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyBullets
I have spent a few days researching and getting some good advice here and I plan to begin putting my table together this weekend. I am going to go simple for now to get rolling and figure out what is important to me and plan to build something full featured later. Also I am itching to get rolling on a project!

I have a few questions I would like to pose to the experts here.

1. Since I am in Houston my garage frequently gets to 100F with 80% humidity. If I use MDF for my table will it hold up? The Homedepot has MDF with Melamine on both sides would that help?

2. Space is at a premium since my garage is used for storage as well. I am thinking of attaching my table to my existing workbench with hinges but the top is almost 40" high. Will that be too high to be safe to work with? How easy is it to put screws into MDF?

3. I built an extremely sturdy frame for my portable poker table last year that I could use as a portable based instead. The frame is pretty large (6'x 3'). I expect my table top to be about 2' x 3'. Any ideas on how to attach it temporarily so I could easily take it apart?

4. My 3rd option is to build a simple frame from the many left over 2x3 and 2x4 and plywood I have laying around. If I do this I would like to put it on casters so I couldcasters a good idea easily move it around. Are tables with good locking ? I am afraid it could be too wobbly.

5. Really silly question. Should I use my fixed based to mount to the table top or the plunge base? I have the PC 893 fixed / plunge combo and assumed it should be the fixed base but after searching around here it looks like some folks use the plunge base.

6. What do most people use to keep the fence square to the work surface? A long T-Square, 90 degree square or maybe embed a ruler in the table? I saw some stick on ruler tape as well but worried the work piece might catch on it.

Sorry for the long post of questions but I really appreciate the great ideas from the members here.

Any advice or comments is appreciated.

Thanks!



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Last edited by bobj3; 06-04-2008 at 10:43 AM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008, 12:40 AM
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Hey Roy,

Bj's right on about the fence. Because the bit is a single point, rather than a flat surface, like a TS blade. The fence dos'nt need to be parallel to anything on the table top. If you look at my last few posts you'll see how I made my fence. I did'nt want tracks or slots in the top because it doubles as a work surface. So I made an adjustable fence (with t-tracks) that I can clamp on anywhere.

I do like my tables a little higher though (40" +, I'm 6' 2"). And I have had very good luck with the locking casters from Hartville.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11883

Rusty

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Bob and Rusty,

Thanks for the additional responses and great ideas! I plan to use a couple of them. I will check out a few of the other posts you mention as well.

I do have an update on my table top at least. I stopped by Rockler at lunch to pickup my router plate and I was lured in by the Father's Day sale of the table top. If you buy the standard top $159 before June 15th, they throw in the 4 piece option kit (feather boards and dust port) normally $40, for free.

Not sure the options are worth $40 but it was enough to get me to buy the top. I figured this is a pretty good first table to figure out was is important to me and I can sell it later if it does not work out. The plate alone is worth $60. I will build a simple frame this weekend out of excess lumber I have then design a more elegant solution with some of the fantastic ideas from you folks.

Thanks for the help!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Router is still my name
I use a self made table
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-wo...html#post30682

My next table top wil be lighter so I can take it inside when I'm not using it.
It's th eonly way to keep things from warping around here.

Metal table may hold up to heat although not sure at this point(97-104 last two days) but they will rust here and they are too small space wise for my working habit and you will be locked in to the type of router plate you can use with them. also way too $$$$.
I have been admiring your table on the forum for a few days. I plan to "borrow" a few of your ideas as well.

Thanks for the ideas.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008, 05:14 PM
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I have been admiring your table on the forum for a few days. I plan to "borrow" a few of your ideas as well.
Thank you and help yourself. Enjoy your new router table top and play safe
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008, 06:17 PM
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Hi Roy,

I like Routers table as well. But I have to ask, have you looked at OP's table? It's made from Birch ply, it's a table of simplicity. This should help give you some good idea's for your table.

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BYOT--
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RT01--

Ken

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