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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2008, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question Basic router table info

Hi,

As you will see from this posting, I am new at using a router table and need some basic help. I inherited a very old Sears router table (Model 171.25444) and don't seem to be able to set it up so that it works properly.

First, when I mount the router using the 3 flat head machine screws that came with it, the top of the screws protrude slightly above the surface of the table. One of them interferes with wood sliding smoothly across the surface. Just doesn't seem right to me - is this normal?

Second, there are 2 fences with wood facing on them that slide forward and back in grooves. The front edge on the fence keeps it from sitting down all the way in the groove, so they sit on an upward angle (not perpendicular to the table surface). Again it doesn't seem right to me.

I've attached some images that hopefully show what I'm talking about. I have to think that I'm missing something, and hope that you guys can help me out.

Thanks
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Last edited by GatorInAtlanta; 06-09-2008 at 07:23 AM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2008, 12:08 PM
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Hi Gator

You will need to pickup some Flat Hd. screws (COUNTER SUNK type 82 deg.) and replace the ones you are now trying to use..

I'm not to sure about the fence ,the plastic parts on the fence should drop in the slots on the table top, but it's a bit hard to see it in your snapshot. ...


============

Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorInAtlanta
Hi,

As you will see from this posting, I am new at using a router table and need some basic help. I inherited a very old Sears router table (Model 171.25444) and don't seem to be able to set it up so that it works properly.

First, when I mount the router using the 3 flat head machine screws that came with it, the top of the screws protrude slightly above the surface of the table. One of them interferes with wood sliding smoothly across the surface. Just doesn't seem right to me - is this normal?

Second, there are 2 fences with wood facing on them that slide forward and back in grooves. The front edge on the fence keeps it from sitting down all the way in the groove, so they sit on an upward angle (not perpendicular to the table surface). Again it doesn't seem right to me.

I've attached some images that hopefully show what I'm talking about. I have to think that I'm missing something, and hope that you guys can help me out.

Thanks



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2008, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Bobj3,

I'll get some counter sunk screws. Looks like the table is built to accommodate those. Not sure why the flat ones are in there now.

I've added a couple of pics of the fence showing the slot and the bottom of the fence. The rectangular shape fits in the slot, but the ridge along the front of the fence protrudes down and keeps the fence from sitting flat on the table. If I slide the fence forward far enough that the ridge goes beyond the slot, the fence is then too far forward to be usable (i.e., wood sliding along the fence wood facing doesn't come into contact with the router bit).
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2008, 06:14 PM
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HI Gator

This is what I would try ,,take off the wooden boards from the fence and then flip it/them over ( picture #2 below ) it looks like it should just slip into the pocket slot....then put on some 3/8" thick boards...(on the fence)

Plus do would Mike said to do, then you will be a happy router user.


=======

Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorInAtlanta
Thanks Bobj3,

I'll get some counter sunk screws. Looks like the table is built to accommodate those. Not sure why the flat ones are in there now.

I've added a couple of pics of the fence showing the slot and the bottom of the fence. The rectangular shape fits in the slot, but the ridge along the front of the fence protrudes down and keeps the fence from sitting flat on the table. If I slide the fence forward far enough that the ridge goes beyond the slot, the fence is then too far forward to be usable (i.e., wood sliding along the fence wood facing doesn't come into contact with the router bit).


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ID:	13269  


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Last edited by bobj3; 06-08-2008 at 07:56 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2008, 07:19 PM
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I think I would take the wood off, and throw it away. Put a single piece of new fence (1x3) on both mounts with a half-hole cut in the middle for the bit to be in.
When you get used to using the RT, then you can either cut the fence in half, or make a new one. The only reason you would want a 2 piece fence is if you're jointing some stock. Get used to the RT before you try doing that.

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Last edited by AxlMyk; 06-08-2008 at 07:26 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-08-2008, 08:32 PM
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Maybe don't even cut the fence but add to it using knobs to support a sliding and adjustable 2 piece. A piece of laminate can be used to joint stock....at least I've been doing that.

The split fence can also be used to ensure the exact size of space between the bit edges and each side of the fence so that you eliminate extra space and have less chance of catching your stock.

Just my 1/2 cents worth.

Ed......:-)
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 01:55 AM
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Your fence sections are not properly mounted if they sit at an angle above the table. Undo the fasteners and look at the parts. I'm sure you will spot the problem.
I am of the opinion that this type of table is best used as a step stool, the fence is difficult to adjust, bit changes and height adjustments are a pain. Consider building your own table or purchasing a new one. You will be much happier.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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In the words of Homer Simpson - DOH!

As observed in a couple of the postings, the fence was upside down. I flipped the facing boards and the fences now sit flat on the table, are more securely held, and slide more freely. Amazingly, the table was probably put together improperly when my father first purchased it (about 25 years ago) and has been that way ever since. Attached pic shows it properly configured.

I think I will create a setup with a single fence facing instead of two as suggested - that will work well with most of what I'll do. Probably keep the original two piece facings around just in case.

Thanks so much to all who provided input - I never would have figured it out.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 08:28 AM
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That looks better. Now, get some flathead screws and start routing.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 09:10 AM
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That table appears to have lots of possibilities, once you become proficient in it's use you will find that it's possible to make all manner of jigs that slide in the mitre slot, one for making finger joints immediately springs to mind. Do take care of your fingers and don't forget to unplug the power cord before changing cutters. When you have spare time try searching members past threads and galleries, it will flatten the learning curve.

Harry



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