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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2008, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Default Table Plate Question

I got the Rockler PC890 plate with the table top I just purchased and installed. I have a couple of questions I hope folks might be able to answer.

There were 2 plastic inserts that screw into the plate. One has a hole so that that is easy to understand but the second one is just a solid piece of plastic except for the the screw holes. What is that used for?

I noticed a could of extra threaded holes scattered around the plate. I am thinking this is for a little stud that could be used while doing freehand work. Is that correct? Where could I find the thread studs? (I could not find them on Rockler.com but guess I could make one).
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 02:04 AM
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The solid plastic insert allows you to create a zero clearance opening for a small bit. The closer to the bit the opening size is the less chance of tear out to the wood. This is best used with a plunge cutting bit so you can raise it to make the opening. Otherwise you must drill the opening to match the bit.
The holes are for a starting pin. You place your material against this pin before making contact with the router bit. This prevents the wood from spinning or possibly pulling your hand into the bit. A simple brass pin will work fine but Rockler sells a fancy one with a dust collection hood attached: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...starting%20pin

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike. This is where the terminology is losing me. I was not sure what to call the threaded stud but i saw a picture somewhere of one sticking out of a plate. I understand what you are saying but I need to do some research to understand exactly how I would use one.

On the solid insert that makes sense. Seems like if I cut a hole in it, then it will on be good for certain size bits. I do not have many bits yet so I will leave it alone until I needed it.

Thanks for the help.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 04:57 PM
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Hi Roy

The hole in the plate is for the safety pin, some times called starter pin..

I found out over time they are not safe....the key to doing free hand work is to do it safe.
Some are push in type some are threaded in the hole type but the real key is to have a guard over the router bit plus a way to get on the bit and off the bit safe plus a way to keep the work space clean of most of the chips...
The one from Rockler is a bit low, if you use a template with your free hand work it will hang up...
I always try to work safe and I do like to make my own guards and jigs..

They are easy to make and cheap the norm...the 1st. time you want to put a edge on a 2 x 4 stock you will see what I'm talking about...two pins is always better than one I think,,,
Here's a snapshot of just 3 that I have made...

========



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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 06:50 PM
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Roy,
Check this video. It is full of tips and techniques.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...ks-techniques/

George
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Bob, thanks for the photos.

So, the holes are for attaching a bit guard when not using the fence and you rest the wood against one of the pins to guide it like the fence?

I obviously need some more reading, this one is just not clear to me.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 07:08 PM
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Roy, the holes are for starting pins. Usually there will be two holes, one for each side of the bit. You place your wood against the pin and slowly pivot the material until it contacts the router bit bearing or guide bushing. This prevents a sudden impact with the bit which can grab the wood and push it away which might pull your hands into the bit. Bit guards are designed to keep your hands from contacting the bit by creating a physical obstacle in the way.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 07:08 PM
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HI Roy

Most plates only come with one hole for the start pin,,the norm..

It's like a fence. well you could say that..unlike a fence the bit is in a pocket so to speak but when the pin is in place the bit is wide open all the way around the bit....that's why I don't like to use just a pin..that bit is spining at about 16,000 rpm and it just a takes a sec. to pull the stock out of your hands or get it jamed between the pin and the bit..

You must always get on the bearing of the bit b/4 you move the stock by the cutter of the bit...that's way it's best to use a template when you can..the template will take the load of the bearing and let you make the cut safe..

A bearing is a fence .. for free hand routing...

========



Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyBullets
Bob, thanks for the photos.

So, the holes are for attaching a bit guard when not using the fence and you rest the wood against one of the pins to guide it like the fence?

I obviously need some more reading, this one is just not clear to me.



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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Mike and Bob, I think you have me straightened out. I have 3 threaded holes which was a little confusing but the photos helped.

I do not think I will be trying this technique any time soon.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2008, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curiousgeorge
Roy,
Check this video. It is full of tips and techniques.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...ks-techniques/
George,
Thanks for the link. You know I had that one book marked but have not gotten there yet. I also downloaded a video about a week ago but have not watched it yet.

I know what I am doing tonight

I appreciate the help.
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