craftsman 1&1/2 HP 8amp router model 315.174921 - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-01-2016, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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Default craftsman 1&1/2 HP 8amp router model 315.174921

hey guys, i am about to design and build myself a new router table but i have a few questions which i figured i'd run by the experts on this site here. I have two routers that im considering using for this project, first is a craftsman 1 & 1/2 hp 8 amp model 315.174921 router that i got as part of an old craftsman router table set up my grandfather gave to me a while back. the router table was shot, it was racked, legs were bent, missing parts of the fence and otherwise just not worth my time, so i took the router off and tossed the table. I figured since its a table mounted router it would be a good place to start for my custom table? what do you think? otherwise i have a black & decker 2&1/2 hp 9 amp plunge router model 7615 that i picked up at a pawn shop the other day for 15 bucks, its in great shape and looks like it was never used. so either of these two i'd like to use on my custom table, would appreciate any suggestions. I'm not consdiering using my good makita router for this table, as i use that for free handing on the jobsite and need to keep it in the truck. also, do you know of any good places where i can buy parts for my custom table? like if i wanted to buy a fence or something instead of building that part? i know kreg makes some things which look like they can be used for custom tables is that right? or did i just see parts for their tables. appreciate the help.


Russ
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 01-01-2016, 03:35 AM
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Hi Russ and welcome to the forum and Happy New Year. Generally I would say plunge over fixed base, depending on the differences in height adjustment, and more power over less power in a table although 1 amp difference isn't much. The HP ratings are a joke especially B&D's claim of 2.5 at 9 amps. Some fixed base routers tend to fall out of the base when the clamp is loosened which makes adjustments difficult. Most plunges have a threaded adjustment rod you turn to adjust so right side up or upside down makes no difference. I'm not sure yours has the threaded rod so that might not help. In your situation I would say whichever one is going to be easier to adjust when under the table is probably the better choice. Taking the plunge springs out makes adjustments easier by the way.

Even the more complex fences aren't all that complicated so unless you want to spring for something like an Incra fence then I would just build my own. Even a straight edge clamped to the table with a cut out in the middle works. If you go back to the Table Mounted Routing sub forum where you posted there is a sticky thread about Show Me Your Router Table. Have a look through it and you may get some ideas about what you want.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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