Router fence mark three - Router Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router fence mark three

i love this learning game that I call a hobby.

After building my table out of white melamine 28mm thick, my first fence was just a piece of wood. OK, but woefully inadequate for dust collection as it just threw everything in my face.

Mark two had a split fence (of which I'm not particularly happy with, wait for news of mark 4), but a collection box behind the bit, with a 2" suction hose off of this around and back to a home made Y joint in the main suction tubing.

Quite fair in operation, although very messy to look at and even with the hose end only a half inch above the table inside the collector box it only picked up fine dust and left the chippings.

So to the mark three. I drilled a 63mm hole in the table top 30mm behind the plate, and rebuilt the fence so there is a channel which covers that hole while the fence is sliding back and fore. I can slide the fence far enough forwards to completely cover the bit, and then 26cm backwards while still covering the hole.

Dust collection is superb! Theres no down side to this as the table top is now clear of hoses, and everything is picked up by it as the chippings now slide along rather than having to be lifted. All thats left is the dust from tail of a rebate if I'm doing a long cut.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 12:36 PM
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Nice, Bob...

What's in store with number four...

Nick

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Points to Ponder...

LEARNING - the decision you make to know and
understand more about some thing.

TIME - the thing that gets in the way of learning.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Mark four......
still in development. The split fence isnt working properly, at this stage I dont know why.
I have two pieces of wood finish chipboard cut from the same large piece, bolted to a single mdf backing board. But they dont exactly line up.
Even with them flush to the backing and the sliding screws tight, theres a very small mismatch, and routing a long edge gives me a slip as the wood passes from right board to left board.

I need to make an adjustable fence with repeatable measurements, but dont have any thoughts right now.
Just enjoying the dust free surfaces (lol)
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:19 PM
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Pics , we need pics

I dont always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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No cameras!

My stuff is not only home made, it LOOKS home made. You guys do way too much fancy stuff for me to show and tell.
I use any scrap to hand and dont bother to finish it as its only me who ever looks at it.
But it works. (g)
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
Mark four......
still in development. The split fence isnt working properly, at this stage I dont know why.
I have two pieces of wood finish chipboard cut from the same large piece, bolted to a single mdf backing board. But they dont exactly line up.
Even with them flush to the backing and the sliding screws tight, theres a very small mismatch, and routing a long edge gives me a slip as the wood passes from right board to left board.

I need to make an adjustable fence with repeatable measurements, but dont have any thoughts right now.
Just enjoying the dust free surfaces (lol)
Bob:
Two possibilities:
1. The larger board may not have been a uniform thickness
2. How did you drill the holes for the sliding screws - did the hole leave a slightly raised lip (tearout) around the hole, causing the face board to be not exactly flush?

Vince

Some folks call me Vince - other folks call me...........
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 03:15 PM
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I found that when I use MDF with a T slot for a fence, when I tighten the bolts to open or close the bit opening it puts indents in the T slot that interferes with the sliding the fences.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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Vince, The mdf backing board, and the faced chipboard sliding parts are all clear of dents and chips.
I think that the out slider might have some swelling due to humidity, even though they have all been in exactly the same atmosphere all along.
With them both closed there is a very tiny catch when running a board across. Too small to see it without using a microscope but enough to screw up any routed edges.

Herb, The bolts are fixed into the chipboard fronts and the mdf is slotted, but I am only using wing nuts with large washers underneath, so no deformarion of the mdf.

I'm not too bothered about it, as it is already on the "scrap it" list due to wanting a readable and repeatable measurement system.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
No cameras!

My stuff is not only home made, it LOOKS home made. You guys do way too much fancy stuff for me to show and tell.
I use any scrap to hand and dont bother to finish it as its only me who ever looks at it.
But it works. (g)
As long as it works you should be proud of your handiwork, not everyone (me included) are master craftsmen that can produce showroom specimens with our creations.

I built a coffee table for my son over the December holidays which closely resembles a camels back, but guess what, my son loves it and so do his friends. That's all that matters.

The definition of insanity is doing something the same way and expecting a different result. Albert Einstein
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
...Even with them flush to the backing and the sliding screws tight, theres a very small mismatch, and routing a long edge gives me a slip as the wood passes from right board to left board...
I had a similar problem on my 'mark 1' but I found that it was my plate sagging. Since I got an aluminum plate it works much better. Now I just have to make a more useful fence.
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