Frame and molding help - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Default Frame and molding help

Hello,

I am new to the forum and to routing. I apologize if I’m not in the correct forum. I have a question regarding the router setup and how to build a frame with molding. I am building a pantry. The carcass is Alder plywood, with a frame molding on the sides. Attached are pics for what I am trying to do. I’m using a ˝” radius bit, ˝” shank, and Woodpecker router system.

I haven’t figured out how to use the router to make the molding such that it perfectly aligns with the top and side. I cut the molding on the tablesaw, I could miter the molding, but how do I make it perfect without cutting thru the piece? I’m sure this easy, I just haven’t figured it how! 

Any suggestions would be very appreciated!

Thanks,
Tom
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf TR Kitchen Cabinets - Floor Units - Tall.pdf (96.1 KB, 129 views)
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 03:40 PM
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Perseus, welcome to the forum.

I think it will be suggested that you miter the corners, which will take care of the alignment question.

I see that you have marked with a pencil where one piece intersects with the other. If you want to join those two in that fashion without using a full miter, then you would need to try and cope that joint.

I think the miter will be much easier.

One of the mods might ask that you fill out your profile so we know your first name. We don't bite here, and yes, I think you are in the right place.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 04:07 PM
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Cut the rails to the distance between the outer steps on the rails and cut a cove on the bottom of the rail on your router table - use a couple of pieces of scrap and sneak up on the fit.

The other option would be to miter the profile back to the lip on the stile and just miter the roundover profile on the rail.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 04:35 PM
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hello and welcome to the router forum
in this situation I would miter the corners
other wise you really need a set of cope and stile bits (which can get expensive)

Looking forward to your participation.
Filling out your profile to include (first name,tools and short bio is strictly (optional )but does help members to better relate to each other.
Thank You John
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 05:13 PM
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Hi Tom and welcome. If you check the picture in this link <strong>Industrial router bits</strong>-Rail & stile router bit sets-CMT tools you'll see that the inside edges of the stiles (vertical pieces) and the inside edges of the rails (horizontal pieces- the illustrations don't show the top edge of the cut but it is the same as the stile) are done with the bit on the right. The other bit (left) is the mirror image of it and the ends of the rails are cut with it so that they mate to the edges of the stiles. That is the normal way it is done. Mostly they come in pairs but there are also single bits that are reversible, usually an ogee type.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 07:33 PM
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spline/biscuit the corner and jack miter the inside of the joint if you you don't want to buy the bit set to do the job the normal way......

.
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the responses!

My stock has two different widths, the horizontal is 3 1/2" the vertical is 2 1/2". Does is matter what approach I use if the widths are different?

I the frame has a rail and stile, but I don't want the panel. Is this doable or recommended?

Thank you!
Tom
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perseus7717 View Post
Thank you for the responses!

My stock has two different widths, the horizontal is 3 1/2" the vertical is 2 1/2". Does is matter what approach I use if the widths are different?

I the frame has a rail and stile, but I don't want the panel. Is this doable or recommended?

Thank you!
Tom
no on the widths...
for loosing the cut for the panel use adjustable cutters and leave out the mortise cutter or adjust it it out of the cut...
for almost every ogee/cove/round over cutter there is a corresponding cutter to achieve a male/female fit...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 01-31-2016 at 08:39 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 09:15 PM
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Definitely a miter joint. Any other way will just piss you off.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 12:50 AM
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Welcome to the forum Tom.

Ross,
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia


Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

‘Members are requested to add a first name in their profile as we are a very friendly bunch here'.
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