Incra/Woodpeckers/Bosch aluminum plate thickness where the router is mounted? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Incra/Woodpeckers/Bosch aluminum plate thickness where the router is mounted?

Due to all the posts about sagging plastic router table plates, I'm pondering the 3/8" thick Incra or Woodpeckers aluminum router plate. I'd hate to lose a lot more of my router's (MRC23) depth range to a thick plate - are either of these any thinner than 3/8" where the router is mounted? It looks like it is full thickness in pictures, but I haven't found one that shows the back side.

Except for the crummy center inserts, the aluminum plate from the Bosch 1171 table also looks good and seems to be available as a spare part. Does anybody know its thickness where the router mounts?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 08:48 PM
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Not sure if I can help you or not...but I just got an 1181, not 1171, and I don't know if the aluminum mounting plate is the same in both or not.

The plate itself is 3/8" thick (10 mm) and the recesses on both sides of the plate appear to be just over 1/16" each. I note that the back side of the plate is machined down about 1/32", so the plate is less than 3/8" thick where the router mounts.

From the top of the plate to the underside of the router support looks like just about exactly 1/4"...but I'm checking that with a tape measure. Not sure where my calipers vanished to.

So many holes in the plate it looks like Swiss cheese!

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 08:59 PM
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Default 1181 Plate pics

Maybe this will help...
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 09:05 PM
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Wow Keith , that's a lot of holes

Ben I kinda like the Incra aluminum plates with there clean sweep centers for dust collection.
If your concerned about loosing depth , maybe a Musle Chuck would help ?
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Ok ,I never insulate

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 10:47 PM
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The other plates are 1/4" thick, I wouldn't fret over 1/8".

Measure twice, cut once and CROSS OUT THE WRONG MARKS.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 11:10 PM
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I popped for the Woodpecker plate with the twist lock inserts. Wonderful, solid, pre drilled for the specific router. I recommend it highly. I also got the template since my previous plate was smaller. I have also been thinking of adding a couple of jointed flat trusses under the table itself to help it stay flat.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
I have also been thinking of adding a couple of jointed flat trusses under the table itself to help it stay flat.
I have honestly been wondering why anyone hasn't mentioned this before. It seems like such an obvious solution to prevent - or at the very least severely limit - sagging.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cocobolo1 View Post
I have honestly been wondering why anyone hasn't mentioned this before. It seems like such an obvious solution to prevent - or at the very least severely limit - sagging.
I believe TimberTailor did just that

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TheCableGuy View Post
I believe TimberTailor did just that
OK. I didn't see that. If it was in the last few days we've been down at the coast wasting serious building time with some of the rellies for Easter.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 01:06 AM
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With one deformed resin plate already, and a free replacement resin plate waiting to be fitted, I havent bought aluminium solely on cost.

And I have to ask why that plate has so many holes in it? Surely the plate can be drilled for router its being fitted to?

But I have come up with a solution for me thats a bit of a hybrid.

I can make my own aluminium plate quite easily, but the centre inserts cant be done by hand so a really large opening would be required, which is no good for my small box pieces.

So I am picking up today an aluminium plate which i will fit under the resin one.

With the router bolted to the resin plate, I will then cut out the router base shape so that there will be 8mm of alloy and 9mm of resin, but the router will still be as close as it was before to the top. That way there is nowhere for the resin to sag to. The only force downwards is a shear force at the router plates edge. And my makita isnt that heavy!
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