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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Default no melamine

I'm about to build my mark 3 router table, but i cant find any melamine locally without buying a 10 ft x 4 ft sheet at really stupid money.
I do have some 12 mm (1/2" ) ply that is very flat and smooth.
Anyone tell me why I cant just use ply?
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 08:19 AM
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Many here have used ply for their top. Use two layers for the top, MDF underneath, glued and screwed to the ply. I would also joint some trusses underneath to help keep it flat. Use Baltic Birch if you can find it. Use an aluminum mounting plate. Finish the top and and wax it.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Tom, youre saying two x 12mm and then mdf? Total thickness must be approaching an inch?

I have a resin plate, but am under backing that with 4mm of aluminium so the plate doesnt sag this time.

Any particular type of wax?
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
I'm about to build my mark 3 router table, but i cant find any melamine locally without buying a 10 ft x 4 ft sheet at really stupid money.
I do have some 12 mm (1/2" ) ply that is very flat and smooth.
Anyone tell me why I cant just use ply?
use it...
if you want to up the smoothness ante use grain filler...
light sanding...
and then begin the sealer/sanding/polishing between coats campaign...
smooth as glass and slick after waxing...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 09:00 AM
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Just a suggestion. You could use formica over the ply. It's smooth and would wear way better than melamine.
billyjim and Herb Stoops like this.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 09:08 AM
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Johnson's paste wax. Use 3/4 (18mm) for both layers, you get about 1 1/2 inch thickness (36 mm). Heavier and the MDF helps keep it flat. Stick gave you the finishing instructions. I would also add edging of some sort to keep moisture away from the MDF. The weight is substantial with the MDF, which is why I'd add the trusses. Pre drill into the mdf for screws. Put the screws through the trusses by drilling a hole bigger than the screw head to a depth that stops the screw about a quarter inch into the ply. Pre drill MDF always or you will get a bump on top, or even a split. The MDF is for flatness, not structure. That's why I'd add the trusses.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 09:23 AM
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single layer of 18mm on top of a torsion box frame and a sheet of 5mm on the bottom...
skip the MDF...

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-wo...ld-thread.html

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 11:12 AM
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Home Depot sells shelving in different lengths and widths.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 11:14 AM
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Home Depot sells shelving in different lengths and widths.
Bob is in Cyprus...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-01-2016, 11:22 AM
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I've seen so many members complain over the years that their double laminated table top warped after they glued it together that I've started suspecting that it's the water in the glue migrating into the substrates that might be causing the warping. 2 layers is not needed. I've even seen Pat Warner say so, that the frame underneath is far more important that what you put on it. I built one table, used it for 3 years, then gave it to my son-in-law who's had it for 4 years and it is one layer of 5/8" melamine with 3/8" deep grooves in it for t tracks and it's still dead flat. Despite going from -45 to plus 40 each year. The trick is a good level frame under it. Theo (Joat) has a table that is at least 15 years old that is a single 1/2" ply that is screwed to a 2 x 4 frame that is still dead level he says. Theo didn't use an insert plate he just screwed the router right to the plywood. You lose about 1/8 to 3/16" of depth doing that as opposed to using a plate. The materials have a minor importance in the build. The engineering is what's the most important.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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