Longer crank handle for Triton - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Default Longer crank handle for Triton

I have built a router table around my Triton MFO01 router, and have started to use it.

I discovered that the crank handle for the built-in lift mechanism isn't long enough to clear the fence when using a tall (long) bit. I discovered the problem when I was routing a T-slot. I used a 1/4" bit to cut the slot, and came back with the T cutter. I did not want to move the fence for obvious reasons.

When the bit requires that the router be lowered very much, the fence interferes with the crank handle rotation.

I tried making a new one from wood, but by the time I drilled out the 7/16" dowel to accept the centering pin on the router body, the wood was so thin that it broke on first use.

Suggestions? Triton does not offer a longer crank that I can fine.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 01:14 AM
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A Fellow Woodworker utilizes a socket wrench handle and a long extension holding the allen screw when raising or lowering the router.

Not sure of how the Triton is set up, but it might work.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 01:20 AM
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''T'' handle Allen wrench???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
''T'' handle Allen wrench???
Don't use your drill motor with a hex bit in it. VOE.

Herb
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
Don't use your drill motor with a hex bit in it. VOE.

Herb
agreed... VOE...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Newman View Post
A Fellow Woodworker utilizes a socket wrench handle and a long extension holding the allen screw when raising or lowering the router.

Not sure of how the Triton is set up, but it might work.
Sounds like a craftsman router I have one that works that way.

For the Triton, 1) remove the crank handle. 2) Drill hole in the end of a block of 5/4 X 5/4X8". 3) Insert Triton crank

Mine hangs from magnetic bar so I also attached a washer. I made from 5/4 so it was grippable
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 06:17 AM
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I would use a length of alloy tube the same as the original and fit a handle onto the top. You could then make it as long as you like.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 06:30 AM
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add one of these to your Allen shank..


.


.
or one of these w/ a ¼'' drive ratchet.......

.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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The Triton routers use a shaft about 1/8" dia with a pin through it. The stock wrench has a hole in the center with a slot across it.

I think Paduke's suggestion is going to be best. I'll look at taking the crank off the end of the shaft.

Thanks,

<Chas>

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2016, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I followed Paduke's suggestion and made this extension for the existing crank:

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...204969&thumb=1

Thanks to all for your suggestions.
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<Chas>

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