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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Default geometry problem

i have never been good with geometry, mainly through having no reason to use it, but now I dont know the answer to my problem.

I have just bought a sliding mitre gauge. This one.....
UJK Technology Precision Mitre Gauge & Fence - Bandsaw Accessories - Sawing - Machinery Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery

I am going to install a mitre gauge track across the front of the router table for it to slide across.

Now come the bit that makes my brain hurt.

How important is it to be square to the cutter?
and exactly what is square to the cutter?

I am hoping to make wood squares with 4 x 90 degree corners, but I am truly lost here.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 01:54 PM
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The bit doesn't care...it's just sitting there waiting for the wood to come across it. It will cut the piece at the angle determined by the face of the miter and its angle to the track.

The important angle is the 90 stop...the face of the miter MUST BE square to the track it rides on. A framing square should be long enough to detect the slightest error...short end against the face of the miter, long end on one of the edges of the track...
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 03:12 PM
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Nick is right. Because the bit is round it's the same from every direction. I made a couple of miter sleds for my Veritas steel table that register against the edge of the table. One is set for 90* and the other is set for 45*. There's a picture of the 90* one in my uploads.

That's a pretty good looking gauge for the money by the way. If you get it do a review after you've used it a bit.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 03:39 PM
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if you want better register the face of the miter gauge perpendicular to the miter slot...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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I was fairly sure I had it right that the bit didnt care, but my memory is becoming very swiss cheese like.

I have the mitre. I've used it once on the bandsaw and I am very impressed with it for the money I paid, as I got it half price unused from someone who bought it and then found it didnt fit the slots on his table saw. (but do remember that advertised price is UK£ NOT $)

The hole stops are very firm, no slop at all when the peg is in the indent. And of course its RED. Very important that.

The router table has been ignored for a while now as I have made boxes that are basically free form rather than precise sides, But with this i intend to make a lot more stuff on the router table.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 10:10 PM
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The last I checked Bob the pound was 1.6 C$ so at 80 pounds would be about $130C so if it is as good as it looks would put it price wise at the bottom of the pack compared to just about all the available after market gauges. The Osborn is worth about $120 US according to a FWW article but is a mediocre performer and the Incra starts higher and finishes much higher while certain models but not all give excellent performance and the the FWW winner, the JD Accumiter, runs at $229 US I believe.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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The pound is at 1.83 canadian right now.

Then you have to add shipping.
Then customs import duty.
BUT, unless canada has special arrangements with the uk, you can claim back the 20% VAT included in the price as it would be an export.

As I say, I havent used it much, but its very well built (the bar is steel, not alloy) it has some tiny grub screws along the bar that allow you to fine tune the width and take out all the slack, and the flip over bar is also very nicely finished with no slop.

I am very hopeful.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2016, 03:22 AM
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Bob,
I would suggest that it is important to have the mitre track parallel to the router fence, so that you can use the two in combination. Since the fence probably has a certain amount of flex in it, this is not critical. If it were me, I would set the fence as square to its slots as possible, then cut the slot for the mitre track parallel to the fence.

Nice mitre guage. I bought one, but it doesn't fit the slot in my table saw, my router table or my bandsaw, so I haven't been able to do a product review. I am going to use it in a home-made table saw I am building (slowly), and might incorporate it into a home-made top for the bandsaw (one day) and then I will be able to comment on its quality. But so far it seems to be a winner and good value for the money.

Please let us know how it goes.

When my time comes, I want to die like my grandfather did - quietly, and in his sleep - not kicking and screaming like the passengers in his car.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2016, 03:51 AM Thread Starter
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David, I bought mine from a guy in Berkshire who had the same problem, it didnt fit. Whereabouts are you? I grew up in south London but lived in Somerset for 30 years before being able to move somewhere warm.

Its a perfect fit for my axminster 350 bandsaw. And i really like the grub screw slack adjusters, i think thats a very nice touch.

At the moment, my home made router fence slides up and down my home made table and is secured with small toggle clamps activated against the underside of the over hanging edges. This has worked great but I am now waiting on a goody package from axminster with the mitre track and a T slot track. I'll cut the T slot and fit it front to back each side of the plate to give me an easier fix for the fence as I sometimes find myself leaning across the router table to reach under neath when I move the fence. Of course i switch off when I move the fence, but I'm a belt AND braces man with that router. I have a deep respect for it.

I've used the mitre fence briefly on the bandsaw and I cant find any fault so far. I'm looking forward to using the flip over stop as I often make multiple small pieces for my boxes.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 02:47 AM
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Hi, Bob,
I live in Farnham, Surrey, about 10 miles west of Guildford.
I once had a holiday in Pissouri and I have a couple of friends who live somewhere around Paphos.
Your plans for the RT sound good. Please post some photos when it is done.

When my time comes, I want to die like my grandfather did - quietly, and in his sleep - not kicking and screaming like the passengers in his car.
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