how do you set up your fence to be perfectly in line with the Bearing of the bit? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default how do you set up your fence to be perfectly in line with the Bearing of the bit?

So this seems like an obvious answer, but I keep seeing an issue with the cope cut on door rails that lead me to believe I am doing it wrong.

My problem is that I get a little divet, on ever rail at the beginning of the cut, every time! It looks as if when I feed the rail into the bit, it leaves the fence a little deeper than the bearing is set.

If this only happened sometimes I would pass it off as sloppy workmanship, but it happens every time.

When setting my fence, I'll grab a metal straight edge, hold it dead flat to the bearing and bring the fence to it. Once I lock down the fence i usually run the ruler across the fence into the bearing to double check.
Anyone else ever have this happen?
Thanks
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 03:31 PM
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set the opening at the bit to zero clearance..
Gaffboat and jj777746 like this.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 03:53 PM
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I have a Kreg router table and the out feed part of the fence was just a tad thicker than the in feed half. I called Kreg and they sent me a new one. Now I am good to go.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 04:26 PM
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The same problem I encountered with my raised panel bit. The way router tables are set, there is an empty gap (about 1.25" in my case) between the fence and the point of contact with the bearing. This translates in a move (or jump) in the position of wood relative to cutter and can be noticed in the finished cut.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys. Zero Clearance..ha! Why didn't I think of that? Genius. I'll test it out and report back. Thanks again.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 04:39 PM
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add a sacrificial and feed it forward into the bit so you get a matching cut out...
of course it will have to be two pieces gaped far enough apart for the bearing to recess into the fence...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 04:49 PM
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There is also the possibility that the bit isn't ground to line up with the bearing. You may have to set to the bearing then move the fence ahead slightly and do a test run. If you don't get the full profile then move the fence back a few thousandths and try again until it's right.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 05:25 PM
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My sled runs in a track.
The fence on the sled is at right angles (calibrate-able) to the guide in the track.
It is a secondary reference but good to <5' of arc.
There are no bearings on the cutter.
Samples are cut, x calibration, until they're cut to speck.
The work is fed with back up stock, never any breakout.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quillman View Post
My sled runs in a track.
The fence on the sled is at right angles (calibrate-able) to the guide in the track.
It is a secondary reference but good to <5' of arc.
There are no bearings on the cutter.
Samples are cut, x calibration, until they're cut to speck.
The work is fed with back up stock, never any breakout.
Great sled and an interesting solution!
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 05:59 PM
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I forgot to ask if you were doing the ends of the rails where they meet the stiles or the edges of the rails. Pat's answer reminded me of that. If you are having trouble with the ends then either use a sled as Pat suggested or use a push block to keep the rail square to the fence. The push block adds some blow out protection.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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