[Wildwood]

Good old Stanley No 194 - Oops! I'm showing my age!

 

[Wildwood]

Re previous post - I realise that it gives a bevel and not a roundover, but its sometimes a good start for softening the sharp edges.

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

I have a Makita 3" power planer that has a groove down the center of the sole that is that for making chamfers. As Rob says, a chamfer is a good start for rounding the edge. I don't know if there any hand planes that have a similar groove in the sole.

 

[chessnut2]

Sandpaper. By the time you have the bit set up, you'd have the job done. A tiny error in setting it up and you'd ruin the piece.

Both are good points, Tom.

 

[subtleaccents]

Most of the 1/16" radius router bits have a 1/2" bearing. If you are breaking the edge of parts that have inside radius less than 1/4" your back to sanding by hand. In my case the parts that need to have the sharp edge broken on small radius inside corners, I have a buffer set up with stacked 320 grit 3" x 9" finger sanding strips. Gets into the small inside corners with ease as well as outside. If it is long straight edge that need a broken edge it's back to a trim router with the 1/16" radius router bit and a light touch with 400 paper to remove the fine chatter left by the router.

 

[Terry Q]

Most of the 1/16" radius router bits have a 1/2" bearing. If you are breaking the edge of parts that have inside radius less than 1/4" your back to sanding by hand. In my case the parts that need to have the sharp edge broken on small radius inside corners, I have a buffer set up with stacked 320 grit 3" x 9" finger sanding strips. Gets into the small inside corners with ease as well as outside. If it is long straight edge that need a broken edge it's back to a trim router with the 1/16" radius router bit and a light touch with 400 paper to remove the fine chatter left by the router.

There are “small pilot roundover” bits that can fit inside corners where a standard 1/2 bearing would get in the way. Just thought I’d let you know so you can reduce some of your sanding.

https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/small-pilot-roundover-bits/products/1978


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.

 

[ranman]

Maybe use the 1/32nd roundover bit first, then go up to the 1/16th to reduce the chances of tearout. I was thinking when I read the topic it was a joke. Wow, I can't believe a bit that small is made. Maybe good for hard or exotic woods that may not sand well????

 

[AndyL]

Maybe use the 1/32nd roundover bit first, then go up to the 1/16th to reduce the chances of tearout. I was thinking when I read the topic it was a joke. Wow, I can't believe a bit that small is made. Maybe good for hard or exotic woods that may not sand well????

I've never seen one that small either, 1/8" is the smallest I have. My go-to supplier goes down to 2.5mm, 3/32". But they do have this interesting new "arris rounding" bit down to 1.5mm:
https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Arris_Rounding_964.html
Like a round-over, but with a very slight chamfer on either side of the curve so that the corner of the bit can't dig in and leave a line. I'm guessing it's aimed at production scenarios where it would save time compared to sanding.

 

[ranman]

I've never seen one that small either, 1/8" is the smallest I have. My go-to supplier goes down to 2.5mm, 3/32". But they do have this interesting new "arris rounding" bit down to 1.5mm:
https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Arris_Rounding_964.html
Like a round-over, but with a very slight chamfer on either side of the curve so that the corner of the bit can't dig in and leave a line. I'm guessing it's aimed at production scenarios where it would save time compared to sanding.

That makes a lot of sense.

 

[subtleaccents]

There are “small pilot roundover” bits that can fit inside corners where a standard 1/2 bearing would get in the way. Just thought I’d let you know so you can reduce some of your sanding.

https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/small-pilot-roundover-bits/products/1978


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.

Terry, many many years ago (giving away my age again) when I first started making splinters (LOL) I used bits like this, as they came in sets from Sears.
Worked well on wood that would eventually be painted. BUT, on wood that was to be stained or clear coated it was difficult to keep from getting those little burn marks in the wood from the pilot if there was any hesitation, similar to a bit with bearing that needs to be sharpened. That would result in extra sanding to remove the burn mark, leaving small hollow spots near the edge detail.
I guess, as a backup, this type can be a help.