They vary, from about 3500 rpm to about 5000. Your blade will have the safe running speed on it and that is what you should probably go by. I wouldn't try to max it out. The arbor bearings have to be able to handle the speed as well. The arbor and bearings have to have minimal endplay or the blade may run in and out during a cut. Best type of mount may depend on your lift mechanism. Best you find some saws to look at. You can see the mechanism through the tilt gauge slot and from above after you remove the blade insert.

 

Hi Locoboy!
For 10 inch blade the optimum perimeter speed is 66 m/sec, about 5250 RPM.
The optimum perimeter speed for any blade is between 60-70 m/sec.
The critical perimeter speed is between 50-55 m/sec.
How to calculate perimeter speed?

V=(D×3,14×n)÷60

D=blade diameter
V=speed cuting (perimeter speed)
n=RPM

How calculate RPM if you know cuting speed(perimeter speed)?

n=(60×V)÷(D×3,14)

 

Hi Colin.

There are several examples of people making their own table saw found on the internet.

Most use an existing circular saw which has all the requirements built in.

The triton workcentre uses a circular saw also

The critical point is getting the fence properly aligned and locked in place.

How did your uncle achieve this?

 

I recall my great uncle having a home-made table saw of sorts in the garage. It was pretty rickety, and probably useful only for rough cross cuts.

While this sounds like a fun project, Colin, please be aware of the safety issues involved. Any play in the mechanisms, or run-out in the arbor assembly could easily result in injury.

 

I am building a table saw of sorts myself, but mine is for ripping rough cut lumber and it has two 10 inch blades that can be moved. What rpm should I run for edging rough cut lumber 2 inch thick?

 

twcco,

Blade manufacturers state the max speed for their blades. I recommend that you check out a couple of the blades you're thinking of using and see what the manufacturer has to say and then de-rate them at least 10% from there.

If I was going to use the cheapest possible import carbide blades I could buy (which I wouldn't use anyway) I'd de-rate it a helluva lot more than that.

The very sharp carbide tips are brazed onto the metal disk and if the brazing fails they are launched at the speed of the blade tip. At 4,500 rpm that's about 100mph. Did I say be sure you have a good blade guard? <g>

 

10" homemade rip saw



I don't know if 10% derate is accurate but you need to run slower rpm ripping (cuting with the grain) than you do making cross cuts so I am running 3767 rpm and it cuts 1" pine like butter....2" pine a little slower but cuts near glue line quality...Oh yea you must have mistaken me for the guy that saw his grampa's wood table saw....haha no that's not me what I built is a home made edger for rough cut lumber 4'x8' all steel welded table, w/two 10" carbide tip blades that can be moved up to 12" apart. I fabricated and welded the frame mounted the motor on 1/4" steel plate w/heavy duty hinges and used the accu link adjustable belt. All I am doing with this thing is ripping rough cut lumber into strips for my molding machines but it sure cuts nice...maybe because I used only AMERICAN made parts and blades and union labor...30 yrs.+ U.A. PIPEFITTER'S LOCAL # 286 AUSTIN, TEXAS !!!

 

Personally, I wouldn't pursue the manufacture of a table saw made of wood. Any money you save will probably get spent at the emergency room. Why not buy a cheap saw and replace the legs with wood...if this will make you feel better? There is a reason that factory built table saws have sold so well for many years. Let's say you save $1,000...was that finger worth $1,000.00 in savings? Now you'll have more experience, but you'll be a bit disabled and your nickname will become "Nubby". You would be better-off choosing something other than a table saw for a project to build.. OPG3

 

I personally, prefer to stick to my guided circular saw system, but to each their own. I would recommend you look up Gil-Bilt (don't have a website) on the internet. They are found on places like OWWM and there is a forum dedicated to them on Yahoo, if I remember correctly. They are still in business, and are outside of St. Louis Missouri. (St. Charles if my memory is still good)

I would also consider looking at the WoodenGears site, as he just made a wood 12" jointer which may inspire you, and there was a book (out of print currently) that was recommended to me years ago: Making and Modifying Machines (check your library and used book stores, etc).

 

10" homemade rip saw



I just finished my homemade table saw today and it works better than I expected !I didn't make it out of wood, it cuts wood....4'x8'all steel welded frame with two 10" adjustable blades, 2hp leland faraday farm duty motor wired for 220 v0lts continuous duty 1 1/8" shaft w/6 7/16 drive pulley....1" blade shaft with 3" pulley and pillow block bearings and lock collars....two 10" carbide tip blades that can be moved up to 12" apart running about 3767 rpm...first cut on 1" rough cut pine air dried 6 months sliced it like butter with no noticable drop in rpm....second cut full 2" rough cut pine had to slo down a little bit but no problems made very nice cuts. I WOULD NOT try to build a machine out of wood to cut wood but I have no problem with fabricating anything out of steel... 30 yrs. pipefitter/welder/fabricator/weekend wood worker !