It sounds like a simple round over bit would work but I am not sure what you are asking from your description. Can you tell us more about what you mean by the rounded edge being 7mm?
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Thank you for your replies.
The 7mm depth refers to the distance from the edge (tip) of the rounded end to the point at which the wood becomes flat. I have created an image to give you a rough idea.
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I don't have the time or tools to do this manually, and I know the results I would get would not be good enough, I'm hoping there is a router bit I can use for this.
The 7mm depth refers to the distance from the edge (tip) of the rounded end to the point at which the wood becomes flat. I have created an image to give you a rough idea.
I don't have the time or tools to do this manually, and I know the results I would get would not be good enough, I'm hoping there is a router bit I can use for this.
Hey, Shaun; Lots of questions (from me 
).
-How much, in feet/meters do you need?
-Is the flat stock already primed or painted?
-Can you make a drawn profile from the end of an existing piece (as a template/sample)?
-Do you have a bit supplier reasonably close by, to take your scrap piece or template to, for matching?
For myself, I'd do that last item first and if that didn't work out I'd get a HSS or Carbide bit custom ground to an exact fit.
Chances are excellent that if it's a piece from the '60s or earlier, that it was done on a shaper not with a router...ie an exact match isn't gonna happen!
I'm with Charles on the 'let sandpaper be your friend' thing. You really only need to blend the actual miters, not the whole length, if it's really a close match.
*Nice illustration by the way!
).-How much, in feet/meters do you need?
-Is the flat stock already primed or painted?
-Can you make a drawn profile from the end of an existing piece (as a template/sample)?
-Do you have a bit supplier reasonably close by, to take your scrap piece or template to, for matching?
For myself, I'd do that last item first and if that didn't work out I'd get a HSS or Carbide bit custom ground to an exact fit.
Chances are excellent that if it's a piece from the '60s or earlier, that it was done on a shaper not with a router...ie an exact match isn't gonna happen!
I'm with Charles on the 'let sandpaper be your friend' thing. You really only need to blend the actual miters, not the whole length, if it's really a close match.
*Nice illustration by the way!
2
Thank you all for your replies. I have a 1/4 inch freehand router and a 1/2 inch table mounted router.
The total size is less than 1 metre.
26.5cm deep x 10cm wide x 21mm thickness
It needs to be rounded on two sides like in this image (red represents rounding)
![]()
The rounding needs to be done in the same way a window board is rounded.
I don't think there is a bit supplier close to me and I cannot take a profile from the existing as it is from the top of a step profile. I expect that it was made in 1958, so you are spot on!
![]()
The total size is less than 1 metre.
26.5cm deep x 10cm wide x 21mm thickness
It needs to be rounded on two sides like in this image (red represents rounding)
The rounding needs to be done in the same way a window board is rounded.
I don't think there is a bit supplier close to me and I cannot take a profile from the existing as it is from the top of a step profile. I expect that it was made in 1958, so you are spot on!
Image link corrected
Thank you all for your replies. I have a 1/4 inch freehand router and a 1/2 inch table mounted router.
The total size is less than 1 metre.
26.5cm deep x 10cm wide x 21mm thickness
It needs to be rounded on two sides like in this image (red represents rounding)
![]()
The rounding needs to be done in the same way a window board is rounded.
I don't think there is a bit supplier close to me and I cannot take a profile from the existing as it is from the top of a step profile. I expect that it was made in 1958, so you are spot on!
Hey, Shaun; (I'm in 'work avoidance' mode...) There isn't really an exact equivalent that's readily available, at least not over here. I'd personally go with the 3/8" roundover if I had to pick an Imperial size, or a 1/4" and sand it rounder. Are your collets Imperial sizes or metric...I realize you called them 1/4" and 1/2" but I wasn't really sure if you meant that literally.
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Well 8/32" reduces to 1/4" and 12/32" is 3/8" when reduced ...
7mm is apparently 1/32 larger than a 1/4" (7mm=9/32")
As I said I'd go for the 3/8" roundover because it's a stronger more durable tread edge. If anybody ever runs a hand truck or equivalent up and down those stairs, it's a consideration.
I use 1/8" or 1/4" roundovers on shelves for the same reason; less likely to get damaged from heavy objects hitting the top edge, especially in the shop.
I just happen to be sitting beside one of my bookcases so I took a picture; it's a 1/4" radius.
7mm is apparently 1/32 larger than a 1/4" (7mm=9/32")
As I said I'd go for the 3/8" roundover because it's a stronger more durable tread edge. If anybody ever runs a hand truck or equivalent up and down those stairs, it's a consideration.
I use 1/8" or 1/4" roundovers on shelves for the same reason; less likely to get damaged from heavy objects hitting the top edge, especially in the shop.
I just happen to be sitting beside one of my bookcases so I took a picture; it's a 1/4" radius.
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For the Imperially challenged, here's what 1/4" and 3/8" radii look like...that's 1/4' squared graph paper in the background
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