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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I'm new to the forum, looking forward to taking part here.

I have a pulpit that my church wants me to build for them, it calls for a 48 inch long 30 degree, butt edge miter joint. I looked for a 30 degree miter lock but online but can't find one. Any suggestions, including an alternate method for the joint?

My concern is that the pulpit is 3-sided, made of oak, and that long joint will some some stress if the pulpit is moved, want to make it as strong as possible.

I've considered a spline or just multiple biscuit but I think miter lock would be the strongest.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jay
 

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Hi Jay

Take a look at the
Two Piece 22-1/2º Lock Miter Set ,it may work for you. 22 1/2 to 30 deg. is not a bit deal the norm.

MLCS Lock Mitre Router Bits

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/TM75-7lockmtr0911.pdf

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/Catalog/page51.pdf

But I will say a 30 deg.can be done easy with the router by using the setup below.
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/33162-mlcs-horizontal-router-table-update.html
==

Hello all, I'm new to the forum, looking forward to taking part here.

I have a pulpit that my church wants me to build for them, it calls for a 48 inch long 30 degree, butt edge miter joint. I looked for a 30 degree miter lock but online but can't find one. Any suggestions, including an alternate method for the joint?

My concern is that the pulpit is 3-sided, made of oak, and that long joint will some some stress if the pulpit is moved, want to make it as strong as possible.

I've considered a spline or just multiple biscuit but I think miter lock would be the strongest.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jay
 

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Hello all, I'm new to the forum, looking forward to taking part here.

I have a pulpit that my church wants me to build for them, it calls for a 48 inch long 30 degree, butt edge miter joint. I looked for a 30 degree miter lock but online but can't find one. Any suggestions, including an alternate method for the joint?

My concern is that the pulpit is 3-sided, made of oak, and that long joint will some some stress if the pulpit is moved, want to make it as strong as possible.

I've considered a spline or just multiple biscuit but I think miter lock would be the strongest.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jay
Hi Jay - you may find these a bit easier to set up than a lock miter.
MLCS Euro door, door lip, finger pull, drawer lock bits, glue joint router bits
Irregardless of the type of glue joint you use, I'd consider some supplemental bracing. :)
 

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If you can't find a suitable bit, the easiest solution is to add a frame member to the inside. You can glue it and even add screws (from the inside - to hold while glue sets). If done right, you won't even notice it (unless you also used screws).

A spline joint could be done but it would be difficult to do with a 30° miter, especially on the large pieces you'd need for a pulpit.
 

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Hi Jay

Just one more note, why make a easy job hard, just use your table saw and put in LONG (deep) spines., say about 1 1/4" deep in both parts..just by using 1/4" thick hard board.

The router is a great tool but not the only one for the job. :)
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Hi Robert

I have a question for you, how would you cut the frame gussets out ?? to fit the angle.
Free hand band saw ?
==

If you can't find a suitable bit, the easiest solution is to add a frame member to the inside. You can glue it and even add screws (from the inside - to hold while glue sets). If done right, you won't even notice it (unless you also used screws).

A spline joint could be done but it would be difficult to do with a 30° miter, especially on the large pieces you'd need for a pulpit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, thanks for all of the responses, it is much appreciated. I was pretty sure I would have to add a frame member on the inside as Robert suggested to beef up that joint, that is likely what I'll do. But, I am looking into the miter lock bits as well, haven't had time yet to check into the leads you all suggested.

And as an aside, just dry fit the head an foot boards for a canopy bed for my fiance last night, I love it when everything goes together perfectly, still smiling this morning.

Thanks again!
 

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HI

Just saw your drawing now I get it THANKS

Bj

==

Hi Robert

Thanks for the feed back ,you lost me on that one at what angle do you set your saw at ?, 3 cuts ?, jig block ?,stand it up on edge and run it by the blade ?, a picture is worth a 1000 words on this one I think :)

==

Table saw - 3 cuts - very simple to do.
 

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Hello all, I'm new to the forum, looking forward to taking part here.

I have a pulpit that my church wants me to build for them, it calls for a 48 inch long 30 degree, butt edge miter joint. I looked for a 30 degree miter lock but online but can't find one. Any suggestions, including an alternate method for the joint?

My concern is that the pulpit is 3-sided, made of oak, and that long joint will some some stress if the pulpit is moved, want to make it as strong as possible.

I've considered a spline or just multiple biscuit but I think miter lock would be the strongest.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jay
I have been somewhat frustrated over this as well. About four years ago, I started out on a hexagonal speaker project. Making the cabinet was the least of my problems, because I put the sides together first, and veneered them later.

My biggest stumbling block was finishing the lense assembly, and out of frustration, I walked away from the whole thing. It took me four years, but I have returned to it again. This time I hope to finish it, and give it to my grandson.

But I am planning to make another set, armed with my knowledge of the mistakes made so far. And this would include a better way to make another six-sided speaker without nailing them together. I'd rather do it correctly, and veneer all the sides before cutting the 30 degree angles, and then putting them together.

Unfortunately, there is just the one set of router bits, which are over $200. If absolutely necessary, I will get the set, but I would rather do this without having to get something I will probably not use again, or a few times at most.

I also made dado cuts in several places, made the internal braces, and then glued them along with the nailing. And besides cutting the angles at 30 degrees, or perhaps 29 degrees, and using the internal braces, that is the only reasonable, cost effective, way I can see to do it.

Using a tilting router table would be nice, but it would be one more thing I would rarely use.

Question: should I make the cuts first, and then seal the veneer face before gluing everything together? I'm worried about glue getting in the grain of the wood, and screwing up my ability to finish it with causing streaks.

Oh Darn, I am not allowed to post 'urls' until I have made ten posts. I'll have to go to a bunch of threads and make a bunch of nonessential posts. Sigh.:sad:
 

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Jay, since finding this thread originally, in search of a 30 degree lock mitre bit, I think I have another way to accomplish your goals, short purchasing the entire set of bits from Sommerfelds, or an entire tilting router table.

I found this in a book entitled "Danny Proulx's 50 Shop-Made Jigs and Fixtures", from Popular Woodworking. I've copied the pdf file and placed it in my Webshots account. It is fairly straightforward, easy to build, and can be easily set up and removed. And it also has a dust collection attachment.



All that would be necessary would be a 22 1/2 degree lock mitre bit, and a fence that is angled at 7.5", in order to achieve that 30 degree angle. I've been looking high and low for something simple, and this is about as simple and straightforward as I could find so far.

NOTE: I'm not sure exactly how to add pictures the official way on this forum, as every forum has different requirements. I can make these smaller if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the Sommerfeld angle making set jlord, it worked like a charm. Was a little tricky with the large panels, and had to run it through the router table twice to clean it up (would like to beef up from my 2-1/4 HP Triton but I love the above table lift). Here's a couple of pictures of the finished product.
 

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Well Done the pulpit is a good advertisement for sommerfield set. I could be accused of having a lock miter fetish. It has driven me to build sliding tables on my fence. One of my RT is dedicated to lock miter set up. Sommerfield here I come
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the Sommerfeld angle making set jlord, it worked like a charm. Was a little tricky with the large panels, and had to run it through the router table twice to clean it up (would like to beef up from my 2-1/4 HP Triton but I love the above table lift). Here's a couple of pictures of the finished product.
Your welcome Jay. Your project looks great!
 

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Just came upon this thread and realize the project is finished, gorgeous job too:). I can't help but wonder if a multi-sided glue joint bit wouldn't have accomplished it as well. MLCS Euro door, door lip, finger pull, drawer lock bits, glue joint router bits
I was looking at the six sided version, #7838.
John, now that I have watched the video, I can see how much of an advantage this set of bits are. The first time I remember seeing them, I saw the picture,



and noted the uneven sides on the front face. And I immediately discarded the bit. But now the video gives a much better example. Here's the video

MLCS How To Video - Multi-Sided Glue Joint Router Bits

Thanks.
 
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