[jlk103144]

Hello all, I'm new to the forum, looking forward to taking part here.

I have a pulpit that my church wants me to build for them, it calls for a 48 inch long 30 degree, butt edge miter joint. I looked for a 30 degree miter lock but online but can't find one. Any suggestions, including an alternate method for the joint?

My concern is that the pulpit is 3-sided, made of oak, and that long joint will some some stress if the pulpit is moved, want to make it as strong as possible.

I've considered a spline or just multiple biscuit but I think miter lock would be the strongest.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jay

I have been somewhat frustrated over this as well. About four years ago, I started out on a hexagonal speaker project. Making the cabinet was the least of my problems, because I put the sides together first, and veneered them later.

My biggest stumbling block was finishing the lense assembly, and out of frustration, I walked away from the whole thing. It took me four years, but I have returned to it again. This time I hope to finish it, and give it to my grandson.

But I am planning to make another set, armed with my knowledge of the mistakes made so far. And this would include a better way to make another six-sided speaker without nailing them together. I'd rather do it correctly, and veneer all the sides before cutting the 30 degree angles, and then putting them together.

Unfortunately, there is just the one set of router bits, which are over $200. If absolutely necessary, I will get the set, but I would rather do this without having to get something I will probably not use again, or a few times at most.

I also made dado cuts in several places, made the internal braces, and then glued them along with the nailing. And besides cutting the angles at 30 degrees, or perhaps 29 degrees, and using the internal braces, that is the only reasonable, cost effective, way I can see to do it.

Using a tilting router table would be nice, but it would be one more thing I would rarely use.

Question: should I make the cuts first, and then seal the veneer face before gluing everything together? I'm worried about glue getting in the grain of the wood, and screwing up my ability to finish it with causing streaks.

Oh Darn, I am not allowed to post 'urls' until I have made ten posts. I'll have to go to a bunch of threads and make a bunch of nonessential posts. Sigh.:sad:

 

[jlk103144]

Jay, since finding this thread originally, in search of a 30 degree lock mitre bit, I think I have another way to accomplish your goals, short purchasing the entire set of bits from Sommerfelds, or an entire tilting router table.

I found this in a book entitled "Danny Proulx's 50 Shop-Made Jigs and Fixtures", from Popular Woodworking. I've copied the pdf file and placed it in my Webshots account. It is fairly straightforward, easy to build, and can be easily set up and removed. And it also has a dust collection attachment.



All that would be necessary would be a 22 1/2 degree lock mitre bit, and a fence that is angled at 7.5", in order to achieve that 30 degree angle. I've been looking high and low for something simple, and this is about as simple and straightforward as I could find so far.

NOTE: I'm not sure exactly how to add pictures the official way on this forum, as every forum has different requirements. I can make these smaller if need be.

 

[jlk103144]

Just came upon this thread and realize the project is finished, gorgeous job too. I can't help but wonder if a multi-sided glue joint bit wouldn't have accomplished it as well. MLCS Euro door, door lip, finger pull, drawer lock bits, glue joint router bits
I was looking at the six sided version, #7838.

John, now that I have watched the video, I can see how much of an advantage this set of bits are. The first time I remember seeing them, I saw the picture,

and noted the uneven sides on the front face. And I immediately discarded the bit. But now the video gives a much better example. Here's the video

MLCS How To Video - Multi-Sided Glue Joint Router Bits

Thanks.