but will the profiles meld???...
Aren't you worried more about the faces matching then the gap behind when the angle is not the "perfect" 90?
You're absolutely right, Herb...if you use the two board method you described, you will never be wrong...It has to work, if you lay a flat board on top of another flat board and mark where the point and heel are and cut them you have the same angle on each board.
Herb
I agree that the formula is wrong. There they are maybe cutting the material different ways for over or under 90 degrees???
Find a different instructable.![]()
gotta love (or hate) google...The video came up as I was looking at where to install Boost and EGT gauges on my Cummins...
I have reread this thread a couple of times now and I see what you guys are saying and I agree the formula is wrong,and you are right,on a deck or laying flooring you would be in big trouble.You're absolutely right, Herb...if you use the two board method you described, you will never be wrong...
Yes, mitre saws at 0 deg cut a 90 degree angle to the fence. If you cut a 40 degree angle you will end up with a 40 & 50 degree cut equalling 90 degree. It's the 50 degree one you need for the 100 degree angle and 40 for the 80 degree angle. If you mitre saw goes up to 50 degrees keep the orientation as you would normally. If doesn't turn work around cut 40 use the 50.What do you guys think...?
According to "See Jane Drill", setting the miter saw to 40 deg will cut an outside molding corner for both 80 and 100 deg imperfect corners.
She says for angles less than 90 deg, just divide by two and set your saw...80/2=40...
For angles greater than 90, let's say 100, take the angle, divide by two, subtract from 90 = the miter setting on the saw...100/2=50...90-50=40, set your saw to 40.
So...setting your saw at 40 will magically cut both an 80 deg corner and a 100 deg corner...
Did I miss something...?