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Very nice adaption and could help in tearout. Two pieces? Maybe it's too early, maybe too late, but how can you get the slot in a single piece? Drill and extremely slim chisel? So many questions......another mug of coffee.
 

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Very nice adaption and could help in tearout. Two pieces? Maybe it's too early, maybe too late, but how can you get the slot in a single piece? Drill and extremely slim chisel? So many questions......another mug of coffee.
Two halves glued together or the center wafer is two pieces sandwiched by two sides, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The one shown was, as has been suggested, two pieces glued together, but not by me! I would have thought one piece in the drill press would be the quick easy way. More long winded but cleaner would be to rout the slot.
 
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Harry,

Thanks for backing up Paul's reply. But I'm lost on the routing part, can you explain? Where did you find this little jewel? Is there a link?
 

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I made some for a jointer out of 3 pieces a while back (much wider). Two center pieces and two side plates. The push tang just floats in mine so it auto adjusts for any thickness but 1/2" total exposure should be plenty. Mine are pretty clunky looking but I wanted to show you could make them out of shop scraps for no money and very little time. It took maybe a half hour to make them but finding pre-made handles would cut that down to 10 minutes.

Post #2 in this thread. https://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/111457-home-made-gravity-push-block.html
 

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Doesn't look like one thickness of ply. Even so, one could make a thin blade kerf on one side. The adjustment knob would hold the tab in place.
 
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Harry,

Can you get a bit (Router) that is long enough to go all the way through from just one side or would you have to work from both sides? Again, I know I am showing my ignorance.

Thank You,

Frank
 

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Frank that tang is only about 1/4" thick so there is no way to find a bit that diameter that long. You'd still have to use the bit to make a slot in two pieces. You might be able to use a square mortiser for that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Harry,

Can you get a bit (Router) that is long enough to go all the way through from just one side or would you have to work from both sides? Again, I know I am showing my ignorance.

Thank You,

Frank
I hadn't given it much thought Frank but how about placing it upside-down in the bench vice flush with the bench, you will then have plenty of support for the router. The bits shown cut 1 1/4" and the shape of the pusher can be altered so that this is sufficient.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Harry,

Thanks for backing up Paul's reply. But I'm lost on the routing part, can you explain? Where did you find this little jewel? Is there a link?
Steve, I got it from a site called PINTEREST. As for the routing method see my reply to Franks post.
 

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I made some for a jointer out of 3 pieces a while back (much wider). Two center pieces and two side plates. The push tang just floats in mine so it auto adjusts for any thickness but 1/2" total exposure should be plenty. Mine are pretty clunky looking but I wanted to show you could make them out of shop scraps for no money and very little time. It took maybe a half hour to make them but finding pre-made handles would cut that down to 10 minutes.

Post #2 in this thread. https://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/111457-home-made-gravity-push-block.html
I remember those push blocks you made Chuck. I meant to make some but I forgot. My memory was the second thing to go. >:)
 

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Nice stock pusher Harry. Glad you posted it. Stock pushers need to hold the work down as well as push it and this one should do both very well. I like my Grrippers, but still use pusher designs that hold the work down too. Grrippers are great, but they aren't the best for every application.

Mine is similar in shape, but made from a scrap of 2 X 8, and it isn't adjustable. It has a few saw cuts through the pusher foot, so it could use replacement soon. After seeing this one I might copy it, as I have plenty of BB scrap to make it from. More and more of my jigs and accessories are being made from BB plywood because I have a bunch of BB scrap and because I like the quality that results from using it.

The adjustable foot in the pictured pusher doesn't look adjustable, since I don't see a slot behind the knob in the photo. Maybe the foot piece is just a replaceable insert that you would cut to length as needed, and the knob is just used to tighten a bolt against the replaceable piece to hold it in place.

I think I would make pusher foot adjustable, as well as easily replaceable, cutting the adjustment slot and the pusher piece slots before gluing the halves of the handle together. The pusher piece could then have a threaded hole in it so the knob and bolt could tighten it against the back of the slot to lock it in place at any height, yet it would be easy to make replacements for it if it should get damaged. I would probably make and keep spares like I do for many of my other shop made jigs.

Charley
 

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I remember those push blocks you made Chuck. I meant to make some but I forgot. My memory was the second thing to go. >:)
I obviously can't count. I said made from three pieces and then listed the 4 it's made from. We're both having problems. I've gotten into the habit of saving handles on things like cement or drywall trowels or the handles on worn out sanding jigs like the ones that hold a half sheet of paper that sell for 6 or $7. They make great handles for jigs like the jointer pushers. If you use one of those type handles you'd need 5 pieces, one thin one to bolt through to attach the handle, then glue it down to the rest.

The easiest way to make Harry's jig is the same way I made mine. Then all the pieces can be cut on a table saw and trimmed to length either on the TS or a chop saw. Cut one center piece to serve as the handle section and a tail piece of the same width, then two thin side plates to hold them together. Doing it this way would allow adding a T-nut or threaded sleeve on the inside of the tail piece for the adjustment knob. Since you'll need to use it for some through cuts too I think I might add a sole plate and when it's been cut too much I can just cut it off at the glue line and glue a new one on.
 

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Gods above, I do hate Pinterest.

The pusher looks great, and very functional. But if I took the time to make one, when I wanted to use it I likely couldn't find it, and would wind up cutting one out of scrap - then can't find that one either, when I wanted to use it again. They tend to get chewed up pretty rapidly also, and have to make another. So, I'll just stick with cutting one out with the bandsaw every time I need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nice stock pusher Harry. Glad you posted it. Stock pushers need to hold the work down as well as push it and this one should do both very well. I like my Grrippers, but still use pusher designs that hold the work down too. Grrippers are great, but they aren't the best for every application.

Mine is similar in shape, but made from a scrap of 2 X 8, and it isn't adjustable. It has a few saw cuts through the pusher foot, so it could use replacement soon. After seeing this one I might copy it, as I have plenty of BB scrap to make it from. More and more of my jigs and accessories are being made from BB plywood because I have a bunch of BB scrap and because I like the quality that results from using it.

The adjustable foot in the pictured pusher doesn't look adjustable, since I don't see a slot behind the knob in the photo. Maybe the foot piece is just a replaceable insert that you would cut to length as needed, and the knob is just used to tighten a bolt against the replaceable piece to hold it in place.

I think I would make pusher foot adjustable, as well as easily replaceable, cutting the adjustment slot and the pusher piece slots before gluing the halves of the handle together. The pusher piece could then have a threaded hole in it so the knob and bolt could tighten it against the back of the slot to lock it in place at any height, yet it would be easy to make replacements for it if it should get damaged. I would probably make and keep spares like I do for many of my other shop made jigs.

Charley
Charlie, the slot goes all the way through so that it can be adjusted to suit the thickness of the wood. It can also be replaced when damaged.
 
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