My questions to you experts are
1) is there a simpler design available?
A). You might try purchasing a kitchen cabinet from your local home depot etc. I have an old cabinet that I assembled into a router table.
2) is this design workable?
A). Yes
3) should I do anything differently, or use extra care with some detail?
A) The cut out for the router base is important. When using longer screws - make sure you match the original mounting screws to the replacement (longer screws), some are METRIC and other are SAE. It's important since they are not interchangeable.
4) is MDF or plywood (both approx 16 mm thick, well sanded) best to use?
A). MDF is far superior where you might have conditions that cause warping. Laminate BOTH sides of the MDF (top & bottom). My preference is MDF. Keep in mind that MDF will not hold a SCREW.
5) how is dust extraction best done?
A). Most routers have acessories made specifically for each router - check the manufactures web site.
All the best
cfm
The parts to be used are the board (MDF or plywood) size 500*700 mm (or smaller); four legs 90*45 mm length just enough to comfortably fit the router under the board; fence from a 45*45 piece of wood, as long as the table is wide; and the base plate that is already on the router (some dort of plastic, 2.5 mm thick). Also bracing material for the legs, 4 long replacement screws to hold the router to the base, and 6 C clamps.
The router plate will be placed flush with the board surface, without possibility of lateral movement. The actual base will be used to mark where holes through the board will be drilled, for the long screws and for the router bit(s). The fence will have holes in the ends to accomodate two C clamps that fasten it to the board. The legs will have holes in the low end for C clamps to fasten them to a workbench (or whatever).
When accessing the router, the 'table' will be turned upside down (with the fence - if then fitted - let hanging outside the workbench).
When I need to repeat a fence position, I will mark it with a knife on the board (putting clues when needed to find the right set of marks again).[/QUOTE]
1) is there a simpler design available?
A). You might try purchasing a kitchen cabinet from your local home depot etc. I have an old cabinet that I assembled into a router table.
2) is this design workable?
A). Yes
3) should I do anything differently, or use extra care with some detail?
A) The cut out for the router base is important. When using longer screws - make sure you match the original mounting screws to the replacement (longer screws), some are METRIC and other are SAE. It's important since they are not interchangeable.
4) is MDF or plywood (both approx 16 mm thick, well sanded) best to use?
A). MDF is far superior where you might have conditions that cause warping. Laminate BOTH sides of the MDF (top & bottom). My preference is MDF. Keep in mind that MDF will not hold a SCREW.
5) how is dust extraction best done?
A). Most routers have acessories made specifically for each router - check the manufactures web site.
All the best
cfm
The parts to be used are the board (MDF or plywood) size 500*700 mm (or smaller); four legs 90*45 mm length just enough to comfortably fit the router under the board; fence from a 45*45 piece of wood, as long as the table is wide; and the base plate that is already on the router (some dort of plastic, 2.5 mm thick). Also bracing material for the legs, 4 long replacement screws to hold the router to the base, and 6 C clamps.
The router plate will be placed flush with the board surface, without possibility of lateral movement. The actual base will be used to mark where holes through the board will be drilled, for the long screws and for the router bit(s). The fence will have holes in the ends to accomodate two C clamps that fasten it to the board. The legs will have holes in the low end for C clamps to fasten them to a workbench (or whatever).
When accessing the router, the 'table' will be turned upside down (with the fence - if then fitted - let hanging outside the workbench).
When I need to repeat a fence position, I will mark it with a knife on the board (putting clues when needed to find the right set of marks again).[/QUOTE]
