A routing tutorial for beginners Part one

tutorial continued

When sorting the photos, I realised that I had failed to take shots of some operations, the most important being how I routed the inside of the tray, so I did a mock set-up to show this with three shots at the end. If anyone has questions, don't hesitate to ask, the chances are that other members have the same questions but are too shy to ask, or feel that the question is foolish, no such thing, if you were in a classroom I'm sure you would raise your hand!

I've just noticed that shots 4 and 5 are transposed

Hi Harry

Nice job,,,

The only thing I can say on the down side is that 40mm guide thing again, most don't have one in the states and that looks like a real key thing,must have item in your snapshots..to make one like yours..that may be a real turn off for the beginners..

I know you hate the brass guides but many in the states have the brass guides ( 1 3/16 " PC type ) 1" ID max. you can get the bits to fit but the collet nut will not fit into the guide hole..so to say it will not plunge to deep,1/2" max if that..with the guide in place, many ways to get around that but not for the beginners..

Maybe you should show how to do it with a diff.type of bit like a strait or a core bit.

You know me I do it all with just one template and use the BRASS guides and off set rings for the off sets..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_core.html
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harrysin said:

When sorting the photos, I realised that I had failed to take shots of some operations, the most important being how I routed the inside of the tray, so I did a mock set-up to show this with three shots at the end. If anyone has questions, don't hesitate to ask, the chances are that other members have the same questions but are too shy to ask, or feel that the question is foolish, no such thing, if you were in a classroom I'm sure you would raise your hand!

I've just noticed that shots 4 and 5 are transposed

Click to expand...

bobj3 said:

Hi Harry

Nice job,,,

The only thing I can say on the down side is that 40mm guide thing again, most don't have one in the states and that looks like a real key thing,must have item in your snapshots..to make one like yours..that may be a real turn off for the beginners..

I know you hate the brass guides but many in the states have the brass guides ( 1 3/16 " PC type ) 1" ID max. you can get the bits to fit but the collet nut will not fit into the guide hole..so to say it will not plunge to deep,1/2" max if that..with the guide in place, many ways to get around that but not for the beginners..


Maybe you should show how to do it with a diff.type of bit like a strait or a core bit.

You know me I do it all with just one template and use the BRASS guides and off set rings for the off sets..

MLCS core box and round nose router bits
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Click to expand...

Thanks for your comments Bob, but I thought that I had explained that a similar project could be made any size according to the cutters and guides that that individuals have. For example, if the inside is going to be 5" diameter, and a 1" guide and a 1/2" cutter used, this gives an offset of 1/4", meaning the hole in the template would be 5.5" to rout the inside, leave the corners square, then, keep the same 1" guide but replace the cutter with a 1/4" one and this will give a 3/8" wall thickness which is very close to the 10mm of mine. You must also remember Bob that this thread wasn't so much to give an end product, but rather to demonstrate that there are so many different ways to use a router, especially a BIG one, by the way Bob, I appreciate you increasing my height in another thread, the truth is that I'm only 5' 2" ish and weigh a mere 145 pounds and have always found a heavy router easier to control than a lightweight one which moves and damages your project if you happen to cough let alone sneeze! As I mentioned in the thread, anyone with questions, just go ahead and ask, I'm sure that between us Bob we'll be able to handle whatever comes along.

vredav said:

Hi Harry,

Being a beginner I like these kind of tutorials.
They show me methods I haven't used before and are detailed enough that I don't get frustraited or make mistakes.
What size bushing did you use to cut the inside of the coin tray(Page #11a)?

David

Click to expand...

David, I used a 40mm (a little over 1.5") for two reasons, so that I can SEE exactly what the cutter is doing, also to allow the collet extension to penetrate, rather than the unsafe way of fitting the short dish cutter with the router plunged and the guide in place. But remember that I stated that one can use whatever combination of cutters and guides that you have.
Do also read my answer to Bj's post

Hi Gavin

It's not a new thing, in the states we can get many templates to do just that type of job without the need for the 40mm guide or any guides at all..the norm..

Here's just some of them

New Products - Heart Bowl and Tray Templates
Gift Making Ideas - Holiday Bowl and Tray Templates
Eagle Originals - Universal Template Guide Plates
Best Sellers - Classic Bowl & Tray Templates
New Products - Serving Bowl & Tray Templates
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v144-0702/ea_-_groove_forming
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/415-0660/best_sellers
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gav said:

Sounds like a good point BJ.
How about you show how to make the same thing the American way.

Although I don't have a 40mm guide, I learnt a lot from your tutorial Harry.
Keep them coming, I may just be able to make cool things with the router one day.
Hope you're not freezing with the record low temperatures you're having at the moment.

Click to expand...

Al Robins said:

Harry,I intended to send you a email re the following, but thought it better via the forum as it may help others. How critical are the dimensions of this project?

I have a block of laminated pine 8 and1/4 by 8 inches by 2 and 3/8 thick. My largest brass guide bush is 35mm (1 and 3/8 inch) and a 12mm (1/2inch ) straight cutter.I have mdf for the template at 12 mill (1/2 inch) or 4 mm (1/4 inch)

Can I utilize the above for this project? My cam box is 2inches in height, Do I machine the workpiece back to say...1 and 1/4 inch to take the half inch template, or 1 3/4 inches to take the 1/4 inch? If this is unacceptable can I use the cam board without the box...use double sided tape for the template and secure the workpiece with the cams?

I also realize you cant answer each individuals problems but maybe you can shed some light on these questions.

Regards.........AL

Click to expand...

Al, there is nothing critical in this project, it was aimed at beginners to show them alternate methods of using the router. I'll try to answer your questions as they appear.
2 3/8" is far too thick for this project, even using a straight cutter you would be struggling to reach a 2" cut, especially if you intended to use skis, which I didn't for the inside. In any case, do you really have that much spare change for such a deep coin tray? By making the tray about 5" dia., it ensured that the router could sit directly on the template for plunge routing the inside, bigger than that and the skis would be required.

The 1 3/8" guide would be fine and if used with the 1/2" cutter would give an offset of 7/16" meaning that the hole in the template would be 7/8" bigger than the inside of the dish, in other words if the dish internal diameter is 5", then the hole in the template will be 5 7/8". By using the same guide and cutter, the wall thickness will be 7/16".

The 1/2" MDF is better than 1/4" and is what I used, simply because it was handy, but I normally use 3/8".

As for securing the work piece, it really doesn't matter how you do it, I personally find the method shown to be the simplest. I do have a selection of boxes/frames using various methods of securing the wood and vary these on different projects to show members different methods that can be used, but do bear in mind Al, the forum motto: KISS, keep it super simple.

Finally, let me assure everyone that metric is far, far easier to calculate offsets than Imperial and if members started to tell manufactures and retailers that they WANT metric guides and cutters, you will eventually get them and no doubt thank me for pushing this subject, also the fact that fixed base routers are for tradies in the building industry, the rest of the world, that is other than the USA use PLUNGE routers the norm. I hope that I've answered your questions Al, if not, keep asking, there will almost certainly be others in the same position.