Wow Nice! Simple really is always best and usually translates into faster and more efficient. . Stuff like this makes me wonder how many things in the shop I do that can be done much simpler, faster and more efficient.
Stuff like this always make me remember the original 1950 movie "Cheaper by the Dozen" about the famous husband an wife team who were time and motion efficiency experts and had 12 kids. They could probably come in and save me hours of time a week. I tend to over complicate things and it takes me far to long for that light bulb moment.
Nice little video, thanks. I have it bookmarked for the future.
I do have a question though for those who may have used this, or similar, jig. Is there a simple convention for marking the parts to assure that the parts at each corners are set in the jig correctly so that the final joint doesn't wind up backwards? - kind of like the 1-1, 2-2,3-3, etc. markings when you're dovetailing a drawer.
Maybe mark the corners 1 - 4, and put an "X" on top of the first part at each corner going clockwise around the assembly? The #1 "X" edge then goes against the key first, flipped and the slot goes over the key and the second #1 piece gets butted against it. Repeat for each corner in order?
I had 8 of them, one for each size box joint that I made on the table saw and a few for use on my router table. Each was only good for one size joint and they didn't store very well. After getting the I-Box jig and using it several times on different size joints, I put all of the wooden box joint jigs in the burn barrel.. Some worked very well and some worked OK, but had slight problems. Each jig took me hours to build and get adjusted so it was "just right". I even had one that I made to be adjustable, but getting it set right wasn't worth the time that it took.
Then I bought an I-Box jig. Once the I-Box jig has been calibrated to just touch the blade tooth, dialing in the width if each notch is easy, and the box joint tooth width adjusts automatically when you set the notch width. I now use a Freud SBOX8 blade set for 1/4 & 3/8 joints, for the most used sizes, a Freud 1/8" FTG rip blade for 1/8" joints. and my Freud adjustable dado blade set for the occasional larger box joints. I've given up making box joints on the router table, because the I-Box and the table saw and blade combination work so well. Dial the width desired, make a test cut and possibly a slight correction, then change the position of the sacrificial strip to an unused area and begin cutting the box joints. The I-Box jig takes all of the fussing out of getting good fitting box joints.
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