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don't see why not...
 

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Theo
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Dunno why not. If nothing else, you can always give her 4 books to put under the legs.
 

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Don, it should work OK if you add 2" to the bottom of the legs and make the rest per plan.
Herb
Adding two inches to the bottom of the legs won't raise the top two inches because the legs are at an angle and form a triangle. On a triangle, increasing the hypotenuse (c) by x does not increase a and b by x. a^2 + b^2 = c^2 .
Also, unless you adjust the location of the pivot point, the legs would stick out past the edge of the table and I, for one, would always be catching my foot on that.
 

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Don, I would print it out, then add the 2 inches of paper at the 18 inch between the 2 prints. Line up on the left hand side of the leg, and then draw a new line from 14 inch to 20 inch on the right hand side, to keep taper disguised
 

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Cardboard template

Many times during my career in the design build construction business we would grab some cardboard and cut out a rough sample. I have found it to be a good representation of what something will look and feel like. I don't think you have to make the entire table but just the legs. Because the questions are: 2" to the bottom of the legs, 2" to the top of the legs or split 1" on the top and 1" on the bottom.

Good Luck,

Marty
 

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I'd draw the whole thing in Sketchup. I have some time on my hands. If you don't do Sketchup, I'll draw it for you.
 
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Adding two inches to the bottom of the legs won't raise the top two inches because the legs are at an angle and form a triangle. On a triangle, increasing the hypotenuse (c) by x does not increase a and b by x. a^2 + b^2 = c^2 .
Also, unless you adjust the location of the pivot point, the legs would stick out past the edge of the table and I, for one, would always be catching my foot on that.
You are right, sorry I misstated what I meant was to raise the table 2" by adding to the bottom of the legs. Being as the legs are on an angle it maybe 2"-3" or some fraction in between. From the picture the legs do not look at much of an angle (fig.A) to extend beyond the edge of the top so should not be a problem with trip hazard.

If you add to the top of the legs then you might have to change the geometry of the folding feature and thus complicate things.

It is a good idea to do as suggested to make a cardboard template before cutting out anything and do a mock up.
Herb
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd draw the whole thing in Sketchup. I have some time on my hands. If you don't do Sketchup, I'll draw it for you.
Thanks Andy I would appreciate it very much. I tried learding Sketchup but it isn't in my DNA.
 

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I tried learding Sketchup but it isn't in my DNA.
I've never even 'tried' learning Sketchup. This is MY Plan A. Works even better after I was given the pencil instead of crayons.
 

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Don, That should be an easy mod to do and making another table should keep you busy for a while.

Maybe you should make a spare table or two at the same time, so the next relative that wants one won't have to wait for their's. It doesn't take much more time to make multiples while your tools are already set up for it. I've found myself making spares of projects quite often for this reason.

Charley
 

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Don...I would leave the top alone...also the pivot point. If you play with either of these, the geometry will be off and you will need to resize the top (or the junction of the top of the logs and the top...

What's left...? The bottoms of the legs...if you literally place a 2 inch block of wood at each of the four legs, the top will raise 2 inches. Now whether you make the block in a manner that keeps the sloping angle of the legs or not is more choice than "must"...you could even invert the angle of the slope on the extension so that the extension slopes backwards for the 2.+ inches...sort of like putting a phone book under each leg..."viola", it's up there...

EDIT: This is not to suggest adding an extension but rather to cut the legs at the bottom so that it has the effect of an additional 2 inch block.

...lots of choices...
 
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I drew the original design in Sketchup to see how it all fits together. Then I redesigned the legs to raise the height 2" while using the same Top and Bottom platforms. Here are some observations:

1. The new legs are symmetrical with pivot in the center. There is no difference in top and bottom until you drill the holes for the bottom platform.
2. Start with 4 leg boards 4" wide by at least 31" long. Miter each end to 36 degrees for a finished length of 27 1/2".
3. Drill the holes before cutting the curves. Now the geometry is set, and the curves are purely aesthetic.

Let me know if you see a problem and I'll take another look.
 

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Here's another way to get there: Instead of drawing all those tedious squares, you can simply use a beam compass to draw the arcs on the template for the legs. Here are the radii and center point. The opposite end is the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Here's another way to get there: Instead of drawing all those tedious squares, you can simply use a beam compass to draw the arcs on the template for the legs. Here are the radii and center point. The opposite end is the same.
Thank you so much Andy. I am in your debt. My niece will be happy also because I was thinking about putting straight legs on it and she really didn't want that.

I have a template of the leg made of 1/4" MDF. I think I will take your Sketchup drawing and get it copied full size and maybe make another template.
 

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I think you should build the legs and top first and cut the notch in the bottom shelf apron last. I didn't leave but 1/8" slack for the top to fit down over the cleats on the tops of the legs. If the legs are even a little too far apart at the bottom, then the top won't go on.
 

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I have a template of the leg made of 1/4" MDF. I think I will take your Sketchup drawing and get it copied full size and maybe make another template.
Two templates if you want two size legs, good idea. Me, if I was doing it, I would do it that way. However, if I just wanted to stick with the added 2", I wouldn't bother, I'd just cut the extra length, then glue it in place, with a glue block on top to make sure it is secure. I've done similar before when I've wanted/needed to mod my masters, sometimes looks like Hell, but always works. My masters are what you call templates, and mine are 2 layers of 1/2" plywood - I'm a firm believer in overkill.
:grin:
 
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