My first time with walnut and my first project with my new table saw (and a straight fence!). I looked around online for plans, but didn't find anything that fit what I wanted, so I made my own. The basic design came from one of Norm's projects, but his was pretty plain, so I added some scroll work to the apron and the lid, and brought the drawers out to overlay the face frame.
The top is a negative pattern of the apron, on a slightly larger scale. The design was laid out using Google Sketchup. I made the molding around the edge myself. Since I only had 3/4 stock to work with, I rabbetted the edges of the drawers so they only have a 1/2 profile from the face frame. What you don't see in the pics is the piano hinge and brass chain to hold the lid open at about 120 degrees that I have since added. the drawer sides are birch ply, and the top drawer is a false drawer, it doesn't pull out.
I was going to put a mirror on the underside of the lid, but the wood was too pretty to cover up.
Finished with dark walnut stain, a mixture of boiled linseed oil and polyurethane next, followed by a couple of coats of satin polyurethane.
Just need some felt in the drawers and I'm all set. I think the drawer sides need some more stain as well, but I wanted to go ahead and post some pics.
What kind of bit did you use on the top ?, I know how hard it can be to get into the tight radius without burn marks, and to get the bit to make the cut true.
Brand name,bit name,part number please thanks.
nice job If you want to Flock the inside with suede here is a site that has any color you want I flock all my box's with it You can get it at different supplyers This is the co. This stuff work's easy and looks great http://donjer.com/suedetex/product.htm
thanks for the flocking info, I haven't yet decided exactly how to divide up the drawers, but the flocking sounds much easier than trying to apply adhesive and felt to the inside- how durable is it? I just don't want it pulling up after a year or two.
as for the radius on the lid- I spent a lot of time trying to decide if I should take a chisel to the lid and square up the top profile to match the bottom- and then I decided my hand tool skills were not up to par and left it alone.
as far as the bit goes, it's just a regular ogee bit- I bought a ryobi starter pack with 18 bits when I bought my first router. but I went very slow in getting to the full profile- shaving off little bits at a time and not going for a full thickness cut. I actually placed a larger radius bearing on the bit and worked my way towards that with 2 passes, and then changed to a smaller bearing, and took two passes to get all the way to it. The final pass ended up only taking off ~1/16 which allowed me to run through the profile pretty quickly and thus avoiding most of the burn marks, the rest had to be sanded out by hand.
but I think it was more technique than bit, because it's certainly not a high end bit, but when a little patience is used I get good results from it.
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