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Acoustic guitar - Build #2

6.1K views 42 replies 8 participants last post by  difalkner  
#1 ·
I've talked about this several times and I'm finally back to building #2! When I built my first guitar I didn't have the CNC, actually built the CNC while I was finishing that guitar so the only job I did on the CNC for that guitar was a little bit of the bridge. I began build #2 while I was building #1 but got so busy with high-end custom woodworking for other folks that I set #2 aside; I didn't realize it was going to be for 5+ years.

Now that I have the CNC I would like to use it for a few more tasks in the building of #2 so the first thing I did was to take photos of the body rim and draw that as closely as possible in my CAD program. The short video below is using a Sharpie to draw that outline so I could see how close my digital drawing came to the hand shaped rims - pretty close as it turns out.

The body is Honduras Mahogany, the lining is Maple with a little Curly Maple thrown in for aesthetics, the top will be Sitka Spruce, and the neck will be glued up African/Honduras Mahogany with a Maple stripe (that could change). The body shape is my design but is very close to my Takamine Grand Auditorium (probably close to Martin's GA or OM, as well).

I'll post updates to the build here in this thread so follow along and ask questions, offer comments, and I'll do my best to get this guitar finished soon so I can get started on more guitars.
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#2 ·
Way cool. It is beyond me now, but I find the process of making instruments absolutely riveting. Thanks for the video. I have watched a ton of videos on making violins, and find them so intriguing. So much carving and shaping, keeping the material thin so it resonates. Wow.
 
#3 ·
Thank you, Tom!

Rosette inlay test on Honduras Mahogany. This is sort of a twisted vine that I drew and decided to use on the guitar but I wanted to test it first. The Mahogany was already cut and the proper thickness for a guitar top (sort of, it is 0.080" thick). The inlay pieces are Maple and Redheart. There's a short video below showing the steps I used to make the inlay.
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#6 ·
That's a really pretty inlay. Carved with the CNC I assume. Watching a violin makeer recondition an instrument, he used a hand tool to gouge the inlay pattern, then used strips of material to fill it in. Simple, but elegant. He also used hyde glue so the instrument can be disassembled and reworked from time to time. What is most amazing is how they use gouges and small hand planes to hollow out the bottom and top so they have curved surfaces. Lots of hand carving on a violin. The thickness is measured with long reach calipers. They generally use well aged, very dry hard maple, resawn on a diagonal so when glued up, it is thick in the middle. The rest is hand carving, although mass made are probably now carved by CNC. Most guitars have flat fronts and backs, but something like the Les Paul has a hollow body with a curved back. Thanks for the videos because I am just fastinated by this process.
 
#8 ·
That's a really pretty inlay.
Thanks, Tom! Ger - get the kayak built so you can build the guitar. :)

Got started on the top today and decided on Curly Maple and Imbuya Burl for the rosette.
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#10 ·
David, that is really nice. The straight grain with cut curving and intertwined inlay is gorgeous. Curly maple will look spectacular when finished. BTW, what do you use to finish it, varnish? I know that's used on violins.

One of the things I love about instrument construction are the small, shaped blocks inside that hold the shape of the curves.
 
#11 ·
what do you use to finish it, varnish?
Thanks, Tom! Shellac, this will be French polished like my first guitar although I may make this one a little bit more on the glossy side rather than that 'old world patina'.
 
#13 ·
Do you use the CNC to carve the frets? I know they have to be precise.
Thanks, Tom! I'm hoping it will look nice.

Good question! I cut the frets by hand on the first guitar but that was before I built the CNC. My plan is to either mark them with the CNC and then cut by hand or cut the fret slots on the CNC; either way the CNC will be involved for the accuracy it provides.
 
#14 ·
The rosette is completed and the top rough cut to shape (actual shape plus 3/16" all the way around). No finish yet but a little Naphtha on the rosette close-up. Not perfect but I'll take it.
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#16 ·
Looking good, David.
 
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#17 ·
Thanks for keeping the build up to date. I for one, am really enjoying seeing this come together. Are you going to do a non-woven enlay near the edges to finish it off? Dang. That sure is a pretty chunk of wood!
I'm enjoying the build and sharing all of this, Tom, so y'all are doing me a favor by vicariously being involved through these updates. Thanks!

I'll probably do a simple bwb binding and purfling rather than anything fancy.
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Looking good, David.
Thanks so much, James! Glad you're enjoying this.
 
#21 ·
Man, this is getting exciting. The violin maker I followed, had forms for all the side parts of the instrument. He steamed them, then clamped them to the forms and let them dry completely. Then each section is glued in place against the vertical blocks that have been carefully carved to match the shape of the top and sides. Very precise work. How will you be doing this? Cutting the verticals on the CNC?
 
#22 ·
Thanks, Tom - glad you're enjoying the build!

I've already bent the sides (see post #1) and the vertical strips you see are already in place. I cut those on the tablesaw then feathered the ends with a chisel. Manufacturers like Martin use tape but I prefer solid wood to help strengthen the sides and keep them from splitting.

I'll be using the CNC wherever it makes sense and as often as possible, really. I could have used the bandsaw to cut the top out and that would have taken all of about one minute. But I spent days working on the digital design representation of my Grand Auditorium body because my plan is to build many more and I wanted the accurate and quick repeatability for cutting tops and that's what the CNC gives me.

The next step will be cutting and shaping braces for the top and those will likely be entirely by hand. If I planned to build hundreds of guitars, or even dozens, using the CNC for initial brace shaping would make sense but in this case I'll just do them by hand.
 
#23 ·
I thought that was a pretty beefy guitar. Thinking about having seen the Romeros in concert and the amazing volume of his guitar. This will surely be a treat to play. Maybe you've found a great extra income source. Let the guitrists beat a path to your door. I bet you could talk one of the great players into giving it a try and a review. All that hand work has to be carrying the sound from the top deep into the instrument.
 
#27 ·
Finished the next step and began another, so here's an update -

Glued these 80 grit pieces to the 28' radius dish -
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Cut the Bubinga bridge plate and an MDF caul to hold it down for gluing -
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And a video to go along with all of this -
 
#28 ·
Great progress, Dave.
 
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