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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My little 8 gal BCP air compressor that I keep in the basement wouldn't go when plugged in. Nothing. Question is ...... what could it be and is it worth fixing. It is 15 years old or better. I'm thinking control valve. Is it worth fixing or just buying another small one. All I use it for is blowing dust off the CNC bed and benches, and a little finish nailing. A new control valve itself is $30+.

HJ
 

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I'm more of a fixer type...I'd rather spend $30 than $100 on a small new one...IF...the rest is in good shape...no rust, motor good, connections, control valves, etc...

You could also use the exhaust port of a shop vac (if it has one) to do what you need (in a pinch)...
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Touble is, I don't know if it's the control valve. I'm just guessing. The rest of it is in good shape. Just been sitting in the basement or garage. Hardly ever even moved.

HJ
 

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John, put it up on the bench so you don't have to bend over; step #1.
Take the switch box completely apart and give it a really good cleaning...check the contacts for crud, and loose connections. Disconnect the cord and check it for continuity.
Once you've eliminated everything electrical, then start on the control mechanisms. Been down this road with my old Campbell Hausfield.
I did eventually replace all the air pressure activated parts but that was more of a midlife rebuild; they didn't owe me anything. My original issues were strictly electrical contact related.
 

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John it being so old do you think it's worth fixing? This is one of those things that could go either way.
 

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clean the contacts on the pressure switch...
check the start capacitor... if it has one...
test out the motor...

.
 

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Cheap compressors are oil-less. That means after about 500 hours, most give up the ghost. Personally, I'd just get another. Some things are repairable, some might be but aren't worth repiaring, and some things just need to be trashed. If the compressor is frozen, it's probably done. Perhaps you can revive it, but 15 years is a long run for an oil-less unit. Who knows the condition of the tank. Did you ALWAYS drain the air and any moisture in the tank. I doubt that, I am fussy and I can't claim yes to that question.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Outlet has juice. It had some rusty water in the tank --- No, I didn't always drain it. It is oilless.

HJ
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Took the pressure control valve/switch apart. Found a burned contact on an angle. Straightened it out and got a buzz when I plugged it in. So I'm pretty sure that's the problem. Now ....... I got springs and parts all over and don't have a clue how to put them back if I had to. Need a new valve anyway, right? So I called the 800 # on the sticker for RMM. Recorded message. Lady says "BCP air compressor parts are no longer available". So, I'll look on the net and see see if I come up with one by chance. Or, I was wondering if I can get the fittings to work, can I use a different valve and just zip tie it or something to the unit? Don't they all just have air in and air out with the same 6 wires?

Or, forget it and buy a new one for $150-200.

Like the other post says - one of the signs of something old is "discontinued".

HJ
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Agri-Supply in NC has one that looks like it'll work. $18 + $6 shipping. It's worth the gamble to at least try. I think these compressors all use the same 8 or ten pressure switches from outside suppliers. I know my 30 gal Kobalt has one that can be had from an outside source.

We'll see.

HJ
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, Stick. I looked on Ebay, but not Amazon. Looks like the LeFoo one is what I need.

HJ
 

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John it's easy to tell if it the pressure switch although I think you have it pegged correctly. The pressure switches job is to start the compressor at a given (low) set point and stop it at a given (high) set point. If you bypass the switch and connect directly to the motor you can tell if it is the switch or the motor. Just remember that you have to take the place of the pressure switch and shut it off before it over pressures.
 

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I'd look for a square D...
my 28 YO Rolair is still going strong... FWTIW...
 

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Did you ALWAYS drain the air and any moisture in the tank. I doubt that, I am fussy and I can't claim yes to that question.
@DesertRatTom

Tom,

This is what I ended up doing. Ball valve with screen brass unit on end of hose.
 

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Ross; that's brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? I hate fumbling around under the tank with that moronic wing-nut setup. I'm all over that tomorrow. Thanks!!
 
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