I’m making a new sub-base for my router and thought some of you might find it interesting and or educational.
The methods I’ve used here maybe different then you have seen before but let me assure I have done this enough times to know it works and I have been happy with the results each time.
This time I am making a clear (acrylic) base for my trim router, the methods show will work for other type routers as well. Since my router is a Porter Cable I will be using that standard for the sub-base.
I have collected an oval shaped piece of acrylic from a surplus store, it was for something other then a router sub-base but it was cheap and clear the two things I was looking for. Now comes the surprise part of the project. I will be using my drill press to do the guide bushing cutouts and for drilling the screw holes.
I have a 1 3/16” forstner for the through hole and a 1 3/8” forstner for the step. I will also use a 1/16” drill to locate the other holes. The first step is to locate the center or desired location for the holes. Once that is done a center punch is used to locate the position of the drilling. One caution, a spring loaded auto center punch can create a stress crack or shatter acrylic so loosen the spring or use a light hammer with a conventional punch.
I use the 1/16” bit to locate the drill press to the point where I want to drill. You need to clamp the plastic down and make sure you have a backer board so you do not drill in to the table and make sure the board supports the plastic under the clamps so it is not cracked when you tighten the clamps. Adjust the table height so you can use both the 1/16” bit and the forstner bits without having to adjust the height again. Once everything is aligned drill the 1/16” hole.
Next we have to take a quick look at the portion of the guide bushing that will need to be flush with or slightly indented from the bottom of the sub-base. On the bushing I have it measured .108” thick. {See attachment 1} This I rounded to .110 then added another .005 and attempted to get the depth of the step at about .115”. Using the larger 1 3/8” bit I run the bit down to the point where it is making contact across the whole 1 3/8” diameter. This I use as my zero point and adjust the drill press to the depth of .115 (remember 1/16” = .0625, 1/8” = .125) I used a 7/64” inch bit (.109) as a spacer plus a hair.
I used my dial caliper to check the depth at about .112”, which I thought was close enough. Now it very important all through this process that you do not move the plastic or the table. I now move on to the 1 3/16” bit and drill the hole through. {See attachment 2} The plastic I used was ¼” thick so no farther modifications were needed.
{See attachment 3 for the sub-base with bushing inserted. Part 2 to follow……..
The methods I’ve used here maybe different then you have seen before but let me assure I have done this enough times to know it works and I have been happy with the results each time.
This time I am making a clear (acrylic) base for my trim router, the methods show will work for other type routers as well. Since my router is a Porter Cable I will be using that standard for the sub-base.
I have collected an oval shaped piece of acrylic from a surplus store, it was for something other then a router sub-base but it was cheap and clear the two things I was looking for. Now comes the surprise part of the project. I will be using my drill press to do the guide bushing cutouts and for drilling the screw holes.
I have a 1 3/16” forstner for the through hole and a 1 3/8” forstner for the step. I will also use a 1/16” drill to locate the other holes. The first step is to locate the center or desired location for the holes. Once that is done a center punch is used to locate the position of the drilling. One caution, a spring loaded auto center punch can create a stress crack or shatter acrylic so loosen the spring or use a light hammer with a conventional punch.
I use the 1/16” bit to locate the drill press to the point where I want to drill. You need to clamp the plastic down and make sure you have a backer board so you do not drill in to the table and make sure the board supports the plastic under the clamps so it is not cracked when you tighten the clamps. Adjust the table height so you can use both the 1/16” bit and the forstner bits without having to adjust the height again. Once everything is aligned drill the 1/16” hole.
Next we have to take a quick look at the portion of the guide bushing that will need to be flush with or slightly indented from the bottom of the sub-base. On the bushing I have it measured .108” thick. {See attachment 1} This I rounded to .110 then added another .005 and attempted to get the depth of the step at about .115”. Using the larger 1 3/8” bit I run the bit down to the point where it is making contact across the whole 1 3/8” diameter. This I use as my zero point and adjust the drill press to the depth of .115 (remember 1/16” = .0625, 1/8” = .125) I used a 7/64” inch bit (.109) as a spacer plus a hair.
I used my dial caliper to check the depth at about .112”, which I thought was close enough. Now it very important all through this process that you do not move the plastic or the table. I now move on to the 1 3/16” bit and drill the hole through. {See attachment 2} The plastic I used was ¼” thick so no farther modifications were needed.
{See attachment 3 for the sub-base with bushing inserted. Part 2 to follow……..
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