Part two
The best way I know to match the new sub-base to the router is with a kit the many suppliers carry. It has a 1 3/16” disk with a ¼” hole in it, a ¼” shaft, and a set of pointed screws that fit in the routers sub-base mounting holes and some longer mounting screws. The kits are sold for a particular router as the screw sizes vary and as I mentioned this is for a Porter Cable trim router.
We will start with looking at the parts I have described. {See attachment 1) The idea is to use the pointed screws in the router base, pointed side out and adjusted to all the same height (count the turns). Next you mount the ¼” shaft in the router and the 1 3/16” disk in the new sub-base. {See attachment 2} (Sorry but I did not get the camera out until after the holes were in place but you should get the right idea.) Next the shaft slides into the disk, and you line up the sub-base how you want it to be. Then I tapped each screw location lightly with a plastic hammer, thus marking it. {See attachment 3} Having marked the locations you will be going back to the drill press and drill out the holes. It might be good to mark the bottom or top so you remember which way things are going. The “center” punches you have just done are on the router side so after drill them you must turn the sub-base over to do the countersink. I should point out that when you decide to do this it is safer to make the holes a little over sized and to counter-bore the screw heads so you can adjust the center easier. I went with the tapered fasteners but then I’ve done this a couple of times.
When the holes are done it is time to align the sub-base to the router. The sub-base must be centered to the shaft of the router to use guide bushings properly. Using the disk and shaft to center the sub-base while you tighten the screws does this. {See attachment 4}
In the last attachment you can see how much larger the new sub-base is compared to the original. The added size is what I need for a lettering project I’m working on. {See attachment 5}
I hope this was useful and clear enough, if not post questions and or comments. I would love to see how some other people do this as well.
Ed
The best way I know to match the new sub-base to the router is with a kit the many suppliers carry. It has a 1 3/16” disk with a ¼” hole in it, a ¼” shaft, and a set of pointed screws that fit in the routers sub-base mounting holes and some longer mounting screws. The kits are sold for a particular router as the screw sizes vary and as I mentioned this is for a Porter Cable trim router.
We will start with looking at the parts I have described. {See attachment 1) The idea is to use the pointed screws in the router base, pointed side out and adjusted to all the same height (count the turns). Next you mount the ¼” shaft in the router and the 1 3/16” disk in the new sub-base. {See attachment 2} (Sorry but I did not get the camera out until after the holes were in place but you should get the right idea.) Next the shaft slides into the disk, and you line up the sub-base how you want it to be. Then I tapped each screw location lightly with a plastic hammer, thus marking it. {See attachment 3} Having marked the locations you will be going back to the drill press and drill out the holes. It might be good to mark the bottom or top so you remember which way things are going. The “center” punches you have just done are on the router side so after drill them you must turn the sub-base over to do the countersink. I should point out that when you decide to do this it is safer to make the holes a little over sized and to counter-bore the screw heads so you can adjust the center easier. I went with the tapered fasteners but then I’ve done this a couple of times.
When the holes are done it is time to align the sub-base to the router. The sub-base must be centered to the shaft of the router to use guide bushings properly. Using the disk and shaft to center the sub-base while you tighten the screws does this. {See attachment 4}
In the last attachment you can see how much larger the new sub-base is compared to the original. The added size is what I need for a lettering project I’m working on. {See attachment 5}
I hope this was useful and clear enough, if not post questions and or comments. I would love to see how some other people do this as well.
Ed