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That's a good video. But the biggest challenge for me with side mounted drawer slides is getting the drawer dimensions right. I build my drawers a hair too narrow and shim with playing cards to get the the slides to move freely.
 

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You're not alone Andy!
 

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I used bottom mount on the one I did yesterday and ended up wishing I'd bout the slides and read the instructions (I know...I know....) before I built the drawer as I made the drawer too tall and had to cut it down on the table saw to get the proper clearance.
 

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That's not a bad way, but I use a simpler method:

I use spacer blocks to set my slides. All slides mount at the bottom of the drawer sides. I build all my cabinets out of 5/8" melamine, and drawer banks consisting of 3 drawers are usually 6", 12", 12" starting from the top. I use drawer dividers at the front. So, starting with the top drawer, I place a piece of 5/8" melamine on the floor and a spacer on top of that which is then even with the top divider.
The slide gets attached to the wall and is supported by the divider and the spacer. Work both sides. Then another spacer for the middle drawer in the same fashion. The bottom slide goes on the bottom of the case. The actual drawer slide gets attached to the drawer side at the bottom (not on the underside). The slides I use call for a 1" space (1/2" on each side), so my drawers are always 1" 1/6" smaller than the opening. I've never run into issues installing drawers/slides this way.
 

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A very handy technique. Thanks, Harry.
 

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I do similar to Vince. The method in the link is good if you have divers between the drawers but where there are no dividers it won't do so well. In that case I start with the top drawer first and cut a scrap of panel that is as long as my slide is high and I rest the slide on it to install. Then when you switch to the other side you are guaranteed the same height and alignment. Then just cut the spacer shorter for the next drawer, etc. You don't have to be super accurate with the heights if you build a box and then add the front to it as is common with the Euro style method.
 
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Charles - you explained what I was trying to say in a lot less words!!!! I usually (but not always) build overlay drawer fronts. My overlay drawer fronts are cut 1/8 inch narrower and shorter than the sides of the cabinet and the opening. So if the cabinet is 30 inches wide the drawer front will be 29 7/8" and a 12 inch drawer opening will get a front that is 11 7/8 inches high. With drawer dividers that allows me to fit a 1/8 inch gap between drawer fronts. I install the drawer fronts from the bottom up. Placing the bottom of the drawer front level with the bottom of the case floor, the top of the drawer front will fall midway on the divider. A 1/8 inch spacer sitting on the top of the drawer front allows me to support and install the next front and so on. That leaves enough room at the top for the actual countertop.
 
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