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Angled clock

10387 Views 54 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  chessnut2
7
Clocks are one of the most asked about projects on the forums. This is a simple but interesting clock you can build with a box joint jig. Photo 1 shows cutting the 60º push block on a miter saw. The saw is set to 30º and cuts are made at both ends with this angle. When added together they will equal 60º. Photo 2 shows the block after it has been run past the bit on both sides, then moved over the fence and run up for a clearance cut. Now we are ready to cut the angles. Note: at this point you can cut the same angles on your work pieces. I did not but the belt sander will make short work of them. The pieces in the photos have already been cut but show the starting position for each series of cuts. Photo 3 shows the starting position for the first cut. Once you have pushed the wood past the bit it is lifted, the push block pulled back, the slot placed over the fence and repeated until all cuts are made as shown in Photo 4. Photo 5 shows a piece of 1 x 2" that has been run past the bit, reversed 180º and clamped on the fence. This is required for spacing the 1st cut on the bottom piece. Photo 6 shows the starting position, note that the push block has been reversed for the bottom piece. After the 1st pass has been made the spacer block is removed and the push stick set onto the fence, the wood is slid against the fence for the second cut. You continue as before making a cut, repositioning and repeating until all cuts are made. Photo 7 shows how the pieces fit. Note the undersized finger on the end. I will trim this off flush on my table saw. Tomorrow I will post the final photos of the process.

Knowing somebody will ask; the small piece of wood on the router table is covering one of the Vac-u-plate ports. Virtually all the saw dust created in this process was captured through the modified port hole in the jig which can be seen in photo 5.

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I guess that my post this morning titled FOR MIKE moderation team is now superfluous. Well done, only a few hours late. I look forward to seeing the finished clock tomorrow. Tell me Mike, is the spacer fence glued to your table, but there doesn't seem to be a screw in the countersunk hole shown in shot #5.
Harry, screws are inserted into the two right side holes when using this jig on an Oak Park table for making box joints.
I speak with you about the Queensland walnut and mountain Ash I bought and you go out and gazump me.......

Great job, Mike..

I hope this weekend is fair weather and the new toys arrive.


James
What is a Gazump?

They say the best laid mice are plans of men or something like that... and I hit a bump in the road. When I bought the clock mechanism for this project it was for a desk top. Now it will be on Sue's bed side tray table and needs to be larger so she will be able to read it at a further distance. I have to buy a new mechanism tomorrow so I can finish the clock. Cutting the mounting hole is the next step. Oops! Mean while here is a photo of the replacement knobs I use on my jigs. They are much easier on the fingers than wing nuts.

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Can you see why I asked the question Mike?

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HI Harry

Why do you only have two holes....? to hold it down in place..


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Can yo see why I asked the question Mike?
Harry, all the jigs I have seen have 4 holes but only the two right hand holes are used for making box joints or dovetail cuts. And yes I understand why you asked. I will query Rick on this.
Gazump in England means:
To beat somebody to something, steal an idea and act on it ahead of the person who's idea it was, or outbid someone in a deal or auction!
Does it mean the same in Oz, JW?

All the best,
Henners.
Harry & Mike,

My 1/8" and 1/4" box joint jigs from Oak Park have only two holes just like Harry's.

The 3/8" jig is the only one with 4 holes.
I've wondered about that but never asked.

Thanks, Mike, good job. It was worth the wait. I'm looking forward to tomorrow. <grin>

Can yo see why I asked the question Mike?
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Hi Barb

Just a butt in post the 3/8" jig can be used for dovetails,,,but once you have the holes drilled for it ,go ahead and drill the other jigs as well ,4 screws is always better than 2 :),, I always use 4 holes,2 screws in the tee track and 2 drilled in the top, that way it's always dead on...:)



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Harry & Mike,

My 1/8" and 1/4" box joint jigs from Oak Park have only two holes just like Harry's.

The 3/8" jig is the only one with 4 holes.
I've wondered about that but never asked.

Thanks, Mike, good job. It was worth the wait. I'm looking forward to tomorrow. <grin>

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Gazump in England means:
To beat somebody to something, steal an idea and act on it ahead of the person who's idea it was, or outbid someone in a deal or auction!
Does it mean the same in Oz, JW?

All the best,
Henners.
Hi, Yes this is what I meant...

My comment to Mike was purely in jest as he and I were talking about this clock last week-end and I was telling Mike that I had gone to a specialist wood supplier and bought some contrasting timbers.

Mike's post was a great description of how to prepare the jig as well as the clock.

Thanks to Mikes help, I have the same jig from Oak Park and hope to use it this weekend.

James
the 3/8 jig has 4 holes as it is used on the Oak Park Table to cut dovetails as well.

There are holes set in the table for this purpose.

James
HI Harry

Why do you only have two holes....? to hold it down in place..


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You're question should be aimed at Rick. Bj, by the way it's only the 1/4" that has two holes,which shows that it is the only size that I've used so far!
You're question should be aimed at Rick. Bj, by the way it's only the 1/4" that has two holes,which shows that it is the only size that I've used so far!
Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

Harry,

If you check at Oak-park.com, both the 1/4 and 1/2' spacers have the two holes.

Do you have all 3 spacers or only the 1/4 and 3/8"?

James
I answered you earlier James but it seems to have vanished. I thought that I had all three fences but it appears that I only have the 1/4" with two holes and the 3/8" with four holes.
Bj, I love the last shot in your edited post, not only is the hinge cleverly made, but you have actually shown SAW DUST!
Hey bj, firstly I meant to say the 1/4" and 1/2" jigs had only two holes. Wasn't thinking that but did type it.
So I'll drill a 1/4" hole in the other corners of those jigs and in my table. OK... I understand the more the merrier and better. Like... if 1 works 2 will work better.<grin>

I had to replace the bolts when I installed the jig. The table I bought from MLCS is 1 inch thick then add the height of the jig. The bolt would show through the bottom but I couldn't get the wing nut on.

One question.... why do you need to have the 3/8" jig bolted down with 4 bolts for the dovetail? Can you do the dovetail on the other two jigs? I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm still working on box joints and moving right along. (Life kinda gets in the way.)

Thanks for the help and the insight. I really do appreciate any and all input so I can work smarter -- not harder. <very big grin>


Hi Barb

Just a butt in post the 3/8" jig can be used for dovetails,,,but once you have the holes drilled for it ,go ahead and drill the other jigs as well ,4 screws is always better than 2 :),, I always use 4 holes,2 screws in the tee track and 2 drilled in the top, that way it's always dead on...:)
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Hi Barb

this should help but the VHS/DVD is better on this one :)
Router Workshop: boxjoints


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Hey bj, firstly I meant to say the 1/4" and 1/2" jigs had only two holes. Wasn't thinking that but did type it.
So I'll drill a 1/4" hole in the other corners of those jigs and in my table. OK... I understand the more the merrier and better. Like... if 1 works 2 will work better.<grin>

I had to replace the bolts when I installed the jig. The table I bought from MLCS is 1 inch thick then add the height of the jig. The bolt would show through the bottom but I couldn't get the wing nut on.

One question.... why do you need to have the 3/8" jig bolted down with 4 bolts for the dovetail? Can you do the dovetail on the other two jigs? I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm still working on box joints and moving right along. (Life kinda gets in the way.)

Thanks for the help and the insight. I really do appreciate any and all input so I can work smarter -- not harder. <very big grin>
You only need to use 2 bolts to hold the spacer fences in place. I have all three as well. The 1/4", 1/2" only have 2 bolt holes and the 3/8" has the 4 bolt holes. The purpose is for dovetail work. If you can find the right videos from RWS, it shows the why and how. :) :) :)
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