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David - Machinist in wood
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This isn't a jig or fixture but rather a tip...

When I do my glue-ups for cutting boards I leave a 'stick' or two a bit long on either end to prevent snipe in not only the planer but also the drum sander. This has the same effect as feeding a sacrificial board before and after your target board for surfacing. I don't always get snipe on my DW735 planer but it's often enough that doing this eliminates the snipe. The little board that's protruding may get some snipe but the target board doesn't. Hope this works for you like it does for me -

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David
 

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This isn't a jig or fixture but rather a tip...

When I do my glue-ups for cutting boards I leave a 'stick' or two a bit long on either end to prevent snipe in not only the planer but also the drum sander. This has the same effect as feeding a sacrificial board before and after your target board for surfacing. I don't always get snipe on my DW735 planer but it's often enough that doing this eliminates the snipe. The little board that's protruding may get some snipe but the target board doesn't. Hope this works for you like it does for me -

View attachment 325889

David
Good idea David. I have a BYRD SHELIX HEAD on my DW735 and started getting snipe when I installed it. I called Byrd and they said shim the rollers up. I raised the upper part up about as high as I could go and put a spacer in there and lowered the roller down and let it set on the spacer. Right under the roller on both sides you can see where it opens up a little. I made some shims out of drink cans in a "U" shape and installed them on both sides and on both rollers. I put .035 in mine. If you have the Shelix head this will help.
 

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That's a good tip, but I'd need the protrusions to be much longer since my snipe is about 3 inches long. Two more tips I'll share that most probably already know.
1. One cause of snipe is lack of support for the free end of the board as it enters and exits the planer. When only one roller is in contact with the wood, it doesn't exert enough down-pressure to overcome the weight of the board hanging unsupported off the end. The free end of the board drops a little, sending the opposite end up into the blades.

2. Another cause of snipe is flex in the frame or lift mechanism of the planer. I can just about eliminate snipe by making very light cuts on the last 3 passes.
 

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David - Machinist in wood
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I do the same, David. Mostly because I am too lazy to cut the boards the same length!
Mike, the hard part is cutting all the other boards shorter once it's glued up and then claiming I did it on purpose and calling it a 'tip'. :wink:

David
 
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