Router Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently found a 1HP 14" Ram Machinery band saw on Craigslist. The blade would not stay on because it was bent in several spots and the steel guide blocks were very chewed up. I picked it up for $100,ordered Olson blades and new Cool blocks from Hartville Tools. Now I can get the blade to track perfectly and easily cut 3/4" hardwood.

My question is about the upper wheel adjustment. When I want to remove or take the tension off the blade, I can unscrew the knob all I want but the block the screw goes thru will not move until I tap it down with a mallet and a block of wood. Is this normal with an older saw? Or is there something I need to lube, or replace.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
Rusty, if this is all, you got a great deal. I don't know where you are but someone like Carter might have a retrofit assembly. My Grizzly has a release lever that takes the tension off of the wheels / blade. Check out Carter. Also, check the postings about the travelling Woodworking shows. There are normally links to their exhibitors. Also, thanks for the car on your avatar- that's my employer. -Derek
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply Derek. I found the Carter website and will check out what they have to offer. I'm in northern California about 80 miles north of Sacramento.http://albany.craigslist.org/about/cities.html If you hav"nt seen it is worldwide but you can narrow it down to your local area. This saw was only 20 miles from my home.
As far as the avatar, the wife and I caught the start of a race on tv midway thru the season last year and hav'nt missed one since. We were hooked (we might be ********) and at this point Jeff Burton is one of many favorite drivers. Can't hardly wait for the Daytona 500 this Sunday. But I may seek some professional help for this addiction since the truck race friday, busch race saturday, and nextel cup race sunday, pretty much kill the whole weekend. And seriously cut into my woodworking time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,165 Posts
My wife and I have been gnawing our nails off since november, waiting for Daytona..

I had a bandsaw very similar to yours.. Never had a problem with it.. Gave it away on Craigslist a couple months ago.. Table angle adjusters were smashed up.. Take care of yours.. Might be hard to find..
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
11,934 Posts
Rusty, I think you will find by removing the parts there is build up and wear underneath. I see a lot of corrosion that should be cleaned off the screw and spring. WD 40 will take care of the cleaning with a wire brush. If there are any burrs you may need to sand or file them off. The block should slide freely with out the spring (Which is most likely dead.) You can buy a replacement spring from either Rockler or Woodcraft that will do wonders for your adjustment tension. Last and very important is to look for any type of grease fitting. Some are Zerk fittings like you would see on a car and others are simply a hole you must use a needle adaptor to pump the bearing grease into. A very light coating on the blocks friction surfaces will help, but it will also attract dirt and sawdust. All the parts should move freely without spring tension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have this same machine. Was going to put a new blade on it but found it had a 92 inch blade. Which my woodcraft has to special order. I was wondering if this sounds right as far as size. And I was also thinking of fabing a riser block for it. If my saw does take a 92 inch blade then what size of block would I need to have it run a 105 inch blade?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,165 Posts
I have this same machine. Was going to put a new blade on it but found it had a 92 inch blade. Which my woodcraft has to special order. I was wondering if this sounds right as far as size. And I was also thinking of fabing a riser block for it. If my saw does take a 92 inch blade then what size of block would I need to have it run a 105 inch blade?
6.5" should do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have this same machine. Was going to put a new blade on it but found it had a 92 inch blade. Which my woodcraft has to special order. I was wondering if this sounds right as far as size. And I was also thinking of fabing a riser block for it. If my saw does take a 92 inch blade then what size of block would I need to have it run a 105 inch blade?






Josh, if it is the same as mine, it uses 92.5" blades. I've ordered them from Hartville, but I also find them locally(Olson brand). Recently I've been messing with a Grizzly riser block kit. With the block installed(took some modification) I can tension a 105" blade without rubbing the top. But the holes on the blade guard are slightly too far apart. And the rod that holds the guides is too large diameter. I'm sure I can work around, or modify all of this, but I may just put it all back together. And save the riser kit till I can find a deal on a saw that it fits. This saw has worked great, and has plenty of power, but I really want more than 5" resaw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,881 Posts
I recently found a 1HP 14" Ram Machinery band saw on Craigslist. The blade would not stay on because it was bent in several spots and the steel guide blocks were very chewed up. I picked it up for $100,ordered Olson blades and new Cool blocks from Hartville Tools. Now I can get the blade to track perfectly and easily cut 3/4" hardwood.

My question is about the upper wheel adjustment. When I want to remove or take the tension off the blade, I can unscrew the knob all I want but the block the screw goes thru will not move until I tap it down with a mallet and a block of wood. Is this normal with an older saw? Or is there something I need to lube, or replace.
Hi Rusty:

You have the standard import 14"/15" bandsaw made by http://www.elephant.com.tw/eng/index.asp without a riser. The first thing to go on that is the upper wheel sliding bracket supporting and controlling the top wheel. The bearings are all standard bearings available at all bearing houses. The "upper wheel sliding bracket" will need to be carefully inspected for cracks and breaks. Take yours apart and you'll find that it is broken. Go to R&D Bandsaws - Featuring Tuff Tooth® Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Accessories, Olson Scroll Saw Blades, Kreg Products and more! and look at their "bandsaw parts & accessories." You'll find most of the parts there.

Next, you'll need a manual. Grizzly, BusyBee, Delta, (and the list goes on) all have manuals that are available for download. Look at the pictures and match the picture to your's and away you go. You'll find the parts match perfectly.

Your biggest problem will be the riser block. Finding the 6" riser is not easy. There are two and four inch kicking around but the 6" is best when you can find it. Go to Busy Bee Tools Product Detail . That's the BusyBee version. Go down the home page, left side and find the link to the manuals, product number CT015N.pdf

I stripped mine down and cleaned it and replaced the bearings and upper wheel sliding bracket. Now I've got a complete "brand new" band saw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
check harbor frieght tools chicago bandsaw 14 inch look at manual pdf
6.5 worked great fab-d it my self out of 1 inch square tube looked like grid from top cut them all 6.5 welded and welded and fill welded
fab-d the following __
new table bracket for moving the table
used cast iron holders that came with the machine for the guides but
made new side and rear guideds top and bottom aluminum square on side with bearings mounted running on both sides of the blade rear has 2 bearings samwiched to make something like the carter guide that has wheel with groove for back of blade to help guide it on small blades remove and install backwards and can install orignal design that is laying so back of blade runs on side of bearing. will post pic when I have more time. I get email updates on this thread so if you have ??? ask here I also found that the wheels are 13.5 after u consider the .125 inset on the wheel talked to carter associate they said there 14" will work with adhesive there rubber tires are 15% to 20% under sized spell check smell check ! ha which do you wanta do! so yes 6.5 worked woodcraft ideas for guides and shop built bandsaw search google (guides) I used 5/8 bearings side
same 5/8 on rear double------- original size for back bear laying flat
I used sqaure tube 3/4 think for side guide holder then 5/8 alminum for bearings to be inserted in with tension pin 1/4bearings will run throught this tubing if you squate it with a hammer on an anvil tapped square tube for wing bolt
have fun done typing always locked thought I could help for a change graphite some and oil some just remember oil atracts dust graphite does almost as good as oil but doesn't stick the dust

allthunds your right and maybe right
a lot of bandsaws part change over to each other but not sure that is the right badsaw elephant bladeguard in rear wrong switch wrong and if you look at the ram machinery it has a square box on the side for speed control with pulleys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,881 Posts
allthunds your right and maybe right
a lot of bandsaws part change over to each other but not sure that is the right badsaw elephant bladeguard in rear wrong switch wrong and if you look at the ram machinery it has a square box on the side for speed control with pulleys
That band saw has been made for at least 30 years (mine is 30 years old) and during that time there has been a myriad of parts substitutions.
- bottom mounted motor with closed base or open base, open base top mounted motor, column base similar to old delta cabinet saws.
- a wide variety of motors, all interchangeable 120v/240v other sizes on special order
- blade wheel covers with two knob screw on or one knob hinged
- the blade wheels are round holed or spoked and 14" or 15" dia.
- a wide variety of switches mounted on the base, or the neck
- bearings all the same for both wheel sizes (that I'm aware of)

They come in single pully, triple pully with idler shaft, direct triple pully and other versions. The constant has always been the main body casting. A vendor could order up any range of options he wanted depending on his price point. There are still a wide variety of options available that can update it to one of the nicest bandsaws on the market.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top