[lmack22]

I've been racking my brain on this but can't figure out a way without climb cutting or feeding the piece in between the fence and the bit, neither of which I want to do.

 

[difalkner]

Can you just take a lighter cut and then climb cutting shouldn't be so scary? Are you able to do the cut with a longer board and then cut it to length? That will give you more to hold onto while making the cut.

 

[lmack22]

Can you just take a lighter cut and then climb cutting shouldn't be so scary? Are you able to do the cut with a longer board and then cut it to length? That will give you more to hold onto while making the cut.

Maybe, I'm just unsure as to how light of a cut is acceptable for climb cutting (I'm very new to this). But yes, the actual board continues further (about 28 inches long).

 

[Marco]

I 'm not sure if I'm looking or thinking correctly but.... when you complete the cut on one side use it to mark the spot for a start/stop block which would be before the bit. You would take the cut side and turn it around 180 degrees. where the end of the board that has the open cut end would be the point to put your start/stop block. To make the cut on the other side place it up evenly against the fence and the stop block and lower the board on to the bit and table and make your cut. It sounds dangerous but if your cautious it's not. However it does get the adrenaline going.

Good Luck!

 

[difalkner]

Maybe, I'm just unsure as to how light of a cut is acceptable for climb cutting (I'm very new to this). But yes, the actual board continues further (about 28 inches long).

That's going to be up to you and your comfort level. 1/16" depth of cut is fairly small so if your target cut depth is 1/8", for instance, then two passes where in conventional cut you might do that in one pass.

 

[4DThinker]

I've been racking my brain on this but can't figure out a way without climb cutting or feeding the piece in between the fence and the bit, neither of which I want to do.

View attachment 401985

No need to climb cut if you are willing to plunge the other side at the end stop point then feed though. If using a bit that doesn't plunge well then a little back and forth movement, keeping the board tight to the fence, while plunging the bit will do. You've got to keep a good controlled grip on the board for this jiggle plunge start, but it isn't hard to do.
4D

 

[jw2170]

Welcome to the forum, @Imack22

As some have suggested, a 'plunge' cut against the fence will work for the 2nd cut. The 1st cut is just a normal edge cut against the fence.

You do not say how wide the cut is to be? Do you have a cutter of the correct size?

 

[TenGees]

Sounds like you're comfortable with the one cut, so... Cut double length with stop blocks at each end. Do both sides. Saw in half. Allow for the saw kerf. Bonus... now you have two! ;-)

 

[old55]

Welcome to the forum @Imack22

 

[lmack22]

Welcome to the forum, @Imack22

As some have suggested, a 'plunge' cut against the fence will work for the 2nd cut. The 1st cut is just a normal edge cut against the fence.

You do not say how wide the cut is to be? Do you have a cutter of the correct size?

It does seem like plunging is the way to go. The cut is 5/8in wide and has a 1/8in depth. Do you think I could cut the full width and depth in 1 pass with a 1 1/4in bit? If it matters, this is my router.

 

[lmack22]

Sounds like you're comfortable with the one cut, so... Cut double length with stop blocks at each end. Do both sides. Saw in half. Allow for the saw kerf. Bonus... now you have two! ;-)

I like this idea a lot!

 

[jw2170]

"The cut is 5/8in wide and has a 1/8in depth. Do you think I could cut the full width and depth in 1 pass with a 1 1/4in bit? If it matters, this is my router."

If you follow the suggestion from @TenGees , with 1/2" shank cutter, that would be OK....

 

[jw2170]

PS. I just looked at your router. If this is only a 1/4" router, a 1 1/4" cutter would be too large. This needs a 1/2" shank cutter. IMHO.....

 

[lmack22]

PS. I just looked at your router. If this is only a 1/4" router, a 1 1/4" cutter would be too large. This needs a 1/2" shank cutter. IMHO.....

Thanks for the input. One last question... if I were to just make this cut straight through without any roundness, could I get by with a smaller diameter bit? Say 3/4in? Or would a 1 1/4in be advised so I'm not cutting any wider than half the diameter of the bit?

 

[jw2170]

A 3/4" cutter could be used, as you are only making a 1/8" depth cut.

You need to ensure that only 5/8 is protruding from the fence. Any router you use, you will still get a rounded end, if that is what you mean....

 

[lmack22]

Got it, thanks.

And I was just referring to ripping the board all the way through (unlike my original images).

 

[John Smith_]

Mack - do you have a drawing, prototype or mock-up of your finished project so that we can see what you are doing? (uness, of course, it is Top Secret for NASA, then we will only look through one eye).

 

[TWheels]

One of these top mounted bearing slot cutter bits should work if the suggestions about the fence and lowering the work piece onto the bit are followed: MLCS Slot Cutter Router Bits and Stackable Slot Cutter Set

 

[Souza1969]

I've been racking my brain on this but can't figure out a way without climb cutting or feeding the piece in between the fence and the bit, neither of which I want to do.

View attachment 401985

Sacrificial fence would be what I'd do

 

[Rev. A]

If you can achieve that you’re after by making this full rabbit without the radius stop it gets real easy