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Hi Mike,
very useful for "jointing" the edge of sheet goods cut approximately to size with a saw. If you use a straight-edge to guide a handheld router, you will land up with a true edge, at 90 degrees to the face on which the router rests. No fuzzy edges top or bottom, if you are using mdf, for example. Limit the amount to be routed to 2 or 3 mm, mostly to minimise dust.
 

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Cutting up large sheet goods, too big to fit into my small workshop, and difficult to handle on a tablesaw. Admittedly, I used the method more before I bought a table saw - previously only had a radial arm saw. Do not have a jointer, could do edges on my planer (up to a certain width of board), but a finicky setup, and then there is the risk of snipe.
I also do not have a good-quality track saw, which could probably also assure a good cut.
Years ago I made a set of guides, which have a central straight-edge of square tubing, mounted on a board of laminated chipboard. The width of the board on either side of the straight-edge is the same as the width from the edge of the router base to the bit (in fact, trimmed to size with the bit). The guide was used first with a circular saw, then without changing position, the router was used to trim and joint the edge. A useful feature was that, if the straight-edge was not 100% straight, it did not matter: if the mating board was cut on the other side of the straight-edge, the imperfections would be complementary, and cancel each other out.
 
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