Yes there are. The Porter Cable 892 has above the table depth adjustment. The speed setting is not adjustable from above the table. I mounted mine directly to the underside of my homemade table. I routed out a circle on the underside so that the thickness was reduced to about half and then mounted the router using longer screws. I plugged it into an outlet strip and that is my on-off switch. I bought the combination router kit that includes a plunge base and I have been happy.

 

I absolutely do not recommend that the PC 893 be used under a table if you expect to use it's height adjustmnent feature. I have dealt with this and it is a nightmare. Dust from the cutting get in between the motor and the the base and binds the motor in the base so that that it becomes very difficult to even get the motor out of the base let alond move it in regared height adjustment. The expendenture of a Jessem lift from Incra, which is more than the cost of the router, turned the 893 into a sweet arrangement but don't buy the router and expect it work in the manner you are asking about.

Besides that, the clamping system is of poor design. The motor is just fine, but the rest of the tool is a joke in my opinion. I need to amend that statement in one respect, I have never even attempted to use the plunge base so I can't really speak to that. In my ignorance I purchased the package before realizing that having the rounter mounted under a table is not a good way to go if you want to use it as a plunge based tool, The inconvenience of removing the motor from the motor from the lift is not at all pratical. I'm in the market for a Makita Compact router to deal with that problem.



Jerry

 

Bosch MRC23 also has above the table depth adjustment.

Regards,

 

Bosch 1617 does as well.

 

I made a long dowel from hardwood with a notch on the end. I use it instead of the Triton crank. Works well.

 

Thanks. Above the table height adjustment is very nice...but how do you change the bits on those models?

 

I made the hole in my table large enough for the nut on my PC892 to rise above the table, and then I can reach under the table to press the shaft lock, and all is good.

 

Adding a Musclechuck to many routers allows the bits to be changed above the table. This requires removable rings to access the factory collets/nuts.

 

muslechuck.....who sells them, how much$

Hi Mike,

I first encountered oak park at Mass woodworking show 30-40 years ago and bought their router table. I have been oit of woodworking for past 25 years but now getting active in my retirment years.

I am building a router table into TS extension and am leaning towards a Jessum lift to use w my bosch 1617. Leaning towards Jessum lift but would like to look at musclechuck alternative.

thanks

 

About the question of changing bits; The top of my table is hinged so that I can lift it, put a prop in place to hold it up and change the bits.

 

Mike, on the first photo you've posted,we see a Bosch router between other two. Is it the Bosch MRC23?
If not, do you know if the muscleChuck camless quick change type 4 will fit on it?

Regards,

 

The routers are the Bosch 1619EVS, MRF23EVS and the 1617EVS; all have Type 4 Musclechucks fitted on them. The MRF23 is the fixed base, MRP23 is the plunge base and the combo kit is called the MRC23... same routers.

 

Triton above table design

Hi,
I've just come off a conversation with Kreg Tech Support about above-the-table depth adjustments on our 3.25hp Triton. Despite their advertising and promotion, it doesn't work. The bit height slips unless you use the locking lever, which is under the table. Defeats the whole purpose of the above the table feature.

They offered to give me my money back, and I'm researching other router options. We've already built a beautiful router table, and don't want to change it.

Good luck.

Frank

 

Hi,
I've just come off a conversation with Kreg Tech Support about above-the-table depth adjustments on our 3.25hp Triton. Despite their advertising and promotion, it doesn't work. The bit height slips unless you use the locking lever, which is under the table. Defeats the whole purpose of the above the table feature.

They offered to give me my money back, and I'm researching other router options. We've already built a beautiful router table, and don't want to change it.

Good luck.

Frank

No where in Tritons advertising do they say that using their above the table feature does not require using the lock as it is intended to be used.
It's not fair to bash a manufacturer because you may not understand the basics of how equipment should be used.
I'm not bashing you Frank, but as you said in another thread you just completed a woodworking course. Please take time to safely understand your tools and how they work.

Ken

 

Frank, all routers have to be locked in position so the bit does not move. Some but not all router lifts have an above the table locking feature but they are the exception and not the rule. Don't you think you are making too big a deal out of this? It is still faster to pop a router out of the table for bit changes.

 

I'm a bit late to this thread, and not greatly experienced in routing. Just a few days ago I mounted the plunge base of my Craftsman 27683 in my router table, after drilling a hole for the crank that came with the router. I removed the springs from the base, to make raising easier, and it raises and lowers easily. Certainly not as elegant as Triton, or router lifts, but also a lot less expensive. It doesn't raise high enough to change bits from the top, and there is some backlash (slop) in the screw thread, but it suits my needs.

 

I think Frank is NOT making a big deal out this. I'm shopping for a router and had Triton on the top of the list because of the above the table bit height adjustment. I want to enclose it in a downdraft box so the need to reach under and lock it is a big deal...and although I've been reading about routers for months now, this is the first time I've seen this mentioned!

 

One of the nice features of the Mast R lift is that it not only allows above table bit changes, but it also affords one to lock the height of the bit from above the table, the only draw back to the lift is its cost. It is worth its cost, but certainly not a necessity for most people. I for one am very happy with the one that I have my router in.

Jerry

 

Harvey, The Triton does not need a box since it has a dust collection port on it's shroud. As long as you use a hose hooked up to a decent vacuum this combination will capture as much dust as possible.

In case I did not make it clear in my earlier post: None of the routers on the market lock in position from above the table.

 

Welcome to the forum John.

 

I wanted to chime in on a recent decision I made. I have the Bosch on my shop built router table that I made back in 2005. While it has served me well I have made the decision to build a new one this Spring. On my current router table I do use the fixed base with the above the table fine adjustment, and that is adequate.

One of the major changes I am making is while I am going to continue using the 1617 motor body, I have purchased a lift. The lift I bought, the PRL-V2 (Incra's version), allows for both fine and quick height adjustment above the table as well as auto-locking. Yes, it is a bit of luxury when you look at the cost of the lift, however, I believe the benefits it will provide make the cost worth it, as well as getting many many years of usage out of it.

 

I bought the big Triton for that reason, did not want the expense of buying a lifter, so far very happy with it, i like the soft start.

The winder works well and single tool bit changes are great, it winds up well above the table to make changing easy.

 

Well, I'll repeat what I said after fitting the #11 MUSCLECHUCK to my early model Triton TRA001 hanging under the table, This MUSCLECHUCK has turned a great router into a brilliant one!

Because of the extra half inch height that these chucks give, I suspect that on many tables with many routers that, using the 4mm ball ended Allen key bits will be able to be changed from above.

 

I have never seen a router that holds the bit height without locking the lever. On the other hand we have 8 Jessem router lifts at work that have above the table height lock. These work well but are easily broken. Because we do mostly single function on each table we always Lock the height using the lock lever.

Regards Bob

 

I personally wouldn't dream of table routing without setting the lock lever, this applies to any make of router. Even when hand held plunge routing the lock lever should be applied but finger ready to release should a problem arise so the the router shoots up into the safety of the housing. This safety feature alone tells one that PLUNGE routers are safer than FIXED BASE ones.

 

This safety feature alone tells one that PLUNGE routers are safer than FIXED BASE ones.

Absolutely true. There are a number of jobs that, in my opinion, shouldn't be done with anything except a plunge router. Hollowing out and stopped grooves are two that jump to mind.

 

Bite the bullet and get the PRL V2. It is the last router lift\plate you will ever need.

I use the Milwaukee 5625-20 Router and use the aluminium inserts from Woodpeckers.

 

This on does.
http://www.routerforums.com/table-m....com/table-mounted-routing/47791-router-lift-something-you-have-never-seen.html

Al