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Does anyone here have any experience with the barbed hinges and the saw blade and arbor that cuts the slot for these? Just curious as to how well they work. I see they are avialable from Woodcraft for about 40.00 for the arbor and blade. I think they are designed for the drill press. I read in one of Doug Stowes box making books that he uses one in a router table and uses a jig. :eek: Just curious what you guys think of them.

Corey
 

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Hi Corey

I have not used them but it looks a bit tricky to put them in with chamfer and the rabbet cut that's needed to hide the barrel of the hinge and to let them fit right so the top will close all the way.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3744

But if you give it a shot please post what you think of them. :)

Have you tried Bob and Ricks way to put in small hinges and the small piano type.
It's quick and easy and it hides the barrel with one pass of the router bit. :)

Bj :)
 

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HI Corey

Once you have the box made and you have cut the top off ( with a slot cutter,band saw,router bit,etc.??) tape the box back up on 3 sides(with masking tape works well), chuck up a 1/4" solid carb. bit in the router table ,close the hinge and this is the height you want to use to set the bit height,then set the box on the table and move the fence so the bit will go into the space in the top and bottom,now for small hinges put some masking tape on the fence and mark it with the start and stop points you want the hinges to be on the box,then drop and plunge the bit into the box,then remove the tape and install the hinges. :)
If you have REAL small hinges (real thin ones) just use a smaller router bit,works great.
If you have a sq.end hinges just take a sharp knife and sq.out the corners.
Don't use a chisel, it will compress the wood in the corners and it time it will lift the hinges when it comes back in to place unless you use a REAL sharp chisel. :)

Just a note,,,,I use stop blocks on the fence inplace of the masking tape because it's dead on unlike the eye ball way (masking tape) and this is the last step in making a great box and the 2nd. thing someone always looks at. :)

B/4 you use this way find some scrap stock and tape it up and give it a test run you will like it because quick and easy and it looks great when your done.
Do it on two sides with the grain and across the grain this will give you the look of both. :)

Just a side NOTE***
This type of slot cutter works great for cutting the top off the box, 1/4" shank and use it without the bearing just with a small O.D. washer (SAE type or ANS) that's the same dia. as the lock nut. (2 or 3 of them)(the norm 1/2" O.D. nut,many router bits come with the small OD washer) and the router table fence.
http://www.mailwareweb.com/sommerfeld/item.asp?n=scb3a&d=75&b=1


Hope this helps
Bj :)
 

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HI Corey

Once you have the box made and you have cut the top off ( with a slot cutter,band saw,router bit,etc.??) tape the box back up on 3 sides(with masking tape works well), chuck up a 1/4" solid carb. bit in the router table ,close the hinge and this is the height you want to use to set the bit height,then set the box on the table and move the fence so the bit will go into the space in the top and bottom,now for small hinges put some masking tape on the fence and mark it with the start and stop points you want the hinges to be on the box,then drop and plunge the bit into the box,then remove the tape and install the hinges. :)
If you have REAL small hinges (real thin ones) just use a smaller router bit,works great.
If you have a sq.end hinges just take a sharp knife and sq.out the corners.
Don't use a chisel, it will compress the wood in the corners and it time it will lift the hinges when it comes back in to place unless you use a REAL sharp chisel. :)

Just a note,,,,I use stop blocks on the fence inplace of the masking tape because it's dead on unlike the eye ball way (masking tape) and this is the last step in making a great box and the 2nd. thing someone always looks at. :)

B/4 you use this way find some scrap stock and tape it up and give it a test run you will like it because quick and easy and it looks great when your done.
Do it on two sides with the grain and across the grain this will give you the look of both. :)

Just a side NOTE***
This type of slot cutter works great for cutting the top off the box, 1/4" shank and use it without the bearing just with a small O.D. washer (SAE type or ANS) that's the same dia. as the lock nut. (2 or 3 of them)(the norm 1/2" O.D. nut,many router bits come with the small OD washer) and the router table fence.
http://www.mailwareweb.com/sommerfeld/item.asp?n=scb3a&d=75&b=1


Hope this helps
Bj :)
Hi Bob i was reading this older post I found while i doing a search for hinges(small) i just finished the box part of several boxes ----but i didn't want to make the lid and the box in one piece--- i am now trying to use some really small hinges ---5 mm barrel and slotted hinges-- I'm really not a fan of either one -they are easy to install but not so nice to look at when the box is done... i think i would like to try your method of routing a taped lid and box... seems like this would work as well as one cut off the box...
If you see something i missed that would ruin the box pls let me know ..i made two experimental boxes from plywood to try out the entire procedure...
Thanks for all your information
Bill
 

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HI Bill

Can you post a picture or two,, the hinge barrel should be hidden or to say so small of a foot print it's hard to see them, if the box is close or open..you can see it from the back side a little bit but not that much..
they can be tricky to put in place..it comes down to how far you want the lid to open,,,90 deg. to a 180 deg.. :)

http://www.routerforums.com/coreys-wooden-stuff/6357-finished-pen-boxes.html
http://www.routerforums.com/coreys-wooden-stuff/7743-couple-new-pen-boxes.html

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Hi Bob i was reading this older post I found while i doing a search for hinges(small) i just finished the box part of several boxes ----but i didn't want to make the lid and the box in one piece--- i am now trying to use some really small hinges ---5 mm barrel and slotted hinges-- I'm really not a fan of either one -they are easy to install but not so nice to look at when the box is done... i think i would like to try your method of routing a taped lid and box... seems like this would work as well as one cut off the box...
If you see something i missed that would ruin the box pls let me know ..i made two experimental boxes from plywood to try out the entire procedure...
Thanks for all your information
Bill
 

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the only barbed hinges i have left are from another project and the barbs were flattened in order to install and try them for fitting as such they aren't too dependable--- but my present concern is the 5 mm barrel hinges. the back of the box is not too pretty --with the chamfering -maybe i cut too deep - anyway i really have been considering your cutting into the box with the router bit for the hinge.... I'll try it in theAM
thanks for your reply
 

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the only barbed hinges i have left are from another project and the barbs were flattened in order to install and try them for fitting as such they aren't too dependable--- but my present concern is the 5 mm barrel hinges. the back of the box is not too pretty --with the chamfering -maybe i cut too deep - anyway i really have been considering your cutting into the box with the router bit for the hinge.... I'll try it in theAM
thanks for your reply
Bill, these two shots should make the fitting of barrel hinges a simple task. The holes in the jig are arranged so that they are centred on the thickness of the wood, and the diameter to suit the hinge size, as you can see, this jig is for two sizes of hinge. Bj and I differ in what we call the cutter for the chamfer, I know it as a 45* but he calls it a 90*, but let's face it, so long as we understand each other it makes no difference.
 

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Just to through some more stuff in if you check ebay under Koa and find jewler boxes by Dunkin51. A lot of his small boxes use the barbed hinges.
 

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Very clear- thank you ...I having just a tab bit of concern about the chamfering in the back -I used a 45 degree bit and cut into the bottom and the top to the center of the drilled holes and it seems --maybe not so attractive as hidden barrel hings. --let me try it again Thanks for your input and i like your concept of the jig -takes much calculating out of the construction ...Thanks again
Bill
 

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I was just pondering your jig for the barrel hinges and the more I look the more useful it appears -it could be clamped and drilled and a stop put on the drill bit to set the depth..
-the depth seems to be the challenge -as too deep and the darn thing goes in too far and thus not far enough in the lid ..but opf course you already knew that --- Think I'll get some metal stock and drilled it out or maybe visit one of my Amish neighbors machine shops and get them to mill it out... thank you for sharing
Bill
 

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Hi Bill

You may want to use the barrel type hinge,, you can't see them when the lid is close and they are very is to install.. :) no slots needed,no rabbet needed )

Drill a 3/8" hole put in a dowel center, then put the lid in place tap the lid with a wooden hammer pull the dowel center out and drill the other holes, pop in the hinge and your done ,they make them in many sizes Rockler sales them with many other wood worker supply outlets..the one I like is 3/8" OD..


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=270&filter=barrel hinge

http://cgi.ebay.com/B-1791-CONCEALE...hash=item360008062271&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

http://cgi.ebay.com/B-1795-CONCEALE...hash=item360131769550&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116


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