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Hello all - new to the forums and thanks in advance for your help!

I need to construct a template for a repeating pattern bargeboard/Victorian "gingerbread" (see pics below). Final material is 16'L x 9"W x 1"T clear, dry pine.

Plan to make the template in either 9mm MDF or 1/4" fibreglass.

Plan to downcut the bargeboard with an old Craftsman "Commercial" router 1/4" drive rated at 6.5A and 25k rpm (if this ain't up to the task, I am open to suggestions on a new router...)

Wondering if an MLC 1/4" spiral flush trim bit would suffice (note the intricacy of the cut - I don't think that 1/2" diameter would work...)

Any suggestions are appreciated - note that I have around 90 linear feet of this pattern to cut!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
(Note: The barge board pattern in left pic will run up and down the eaves of the building in right pic.) ;)
 

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Welcome to the forum, Jeremy.
 

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Jeremy
Personally I would think cutting them out with a jigsaw would be better. Also I prefer on large jobs to use a 1/2 shanked bit. They are more stable IMO. I'l wait and see what others suggest but from my experience this is the route I would take. I would do some round overs on them to ease the edge, but most of the work of cutting would be with a hand held jigsaw.
Best of luck.
 

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Hello all - new to the forums and thanks in advance for your help!

I need to construct a template for a repeating pattern bargeboard/Victorian "gingerbread" (see pics below). Final material is 16'L x 9"W x 1"T clear, dry pine.

Plan to make the template in either 9mm MDF or 1/4" fibreglass.

Plan to downcut the bargeboard with an old Craftsman "Commercial" router 1/4" drive rated at 6.5A and 25k rpm (if this ain't up to the task, I am open to suggestions on a new router...)

Wondering if an MLC 1/4" spiral flush trim bit would suffice (note the intricacy of the cut - I don't think that 1/2" diameter would work...)

Any suggestions are appreciated - note that I have around 90 linear feet of this pattern to cut!
Welcome aboard. I prefer making my masters/templates out of two layers of 1/2" plywood. The 1" thickness makes it easier to handle. To hold the routed piece on I drill pilot holes in the masters and nail it on using thin nails. I much prefer that over carpet tape or rubber cement. Does leave small holes tho. All of my routers are old Craftsman 1/4", and I usually use a 1/2" bit - fine as long as you rough trim close and don't try to hob material. Glad it's you doing the work, and not me.
 

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Jeremy, for the best results I would remove the bulk of the material with a jig saw. Next I would follow the pattern using a 1/2" spiral up cut bit. Once this has been done go around with a 1/4" spiral upcut bit for the fine details. This method limits the amount of material being removed by the router in each pass to less than 1/4" and this will result in the cleanest finish. To soften the edge I would use a 1/8" round over bit on both sides.

This would require a bigger router for the 1/2" bit. (1/2" shank) I suggest you get a router that is rated at 12 amps or above.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great advice, Mike.

Quick question - Can I get this done with a hand-held router by clamping my template on top? The lengths are 16' which makes table routing (which I don't have) rather awkward...
 
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