Berry I recently did something similar to your project using aged wood for a rustic look. I ripped my stock keeping in mind to have has much "Old-Barn" wood on the soon to be outside of the frame. That way when assembled the frame looks old or in your case painted barn wood. For the inside of the frame where it was ripped I brought the image up and flush with the frame. If that is not possible mixing some paint(s) to match the barn wood is something to consider.

 

Thanks for the reply Jim, did you re-enforce those corners in some way or is it just glue?

 

I have seen a sled/clamp on Youtube that you could use to cut a straight edge and keep the natural edge.

Will see if I can find it again.

 

That's okay, I have a sled like that somewhere in the garage. I'll have to get up into the joists and see if I can find it. Thanks.

 

Along with glue, I believe I used a 1 1/2 inch wide crown staple gun that sunk them below flush. If I didn't have the gun I thought about using dowels and putting the aging/weather mix of vinegar and steel wool

 

Not much extra wood. Develop a good plan before starting. I think 45 miters is good since it will keep the most original edges exposed. Vinegar and steel wool (use 0000) will make a good stain to do the edges and blemishes that show fresh cut wood. Let the steel wool sit in the vinegar for days, so it gets good and dark. The mitered corners will need some additional strength. If you can do dowels accurately you can do this with small diameter dowels, The staple from the back side will work well if you have the right stapler to do this. A triangle of thin craft plywood like maybe 1/16 thick on the back side of each corner, stained with the steel wool/vinegar, is another way. Position them back away from the outside edge of the frame to make them less visible from the front.

Charley

 

Our house was built in about 1920, and when we replaced the windows several years ago, i saved the original jambs in a pile behind the shed. My wife recently had a family picture printed on 24" x 36" canvas, which was mounted to a 1 1/4" thick cardboard like backer. Her intent was to hang with no frame. I made a quick outer frame of 3/4" poplar, then straight-lined some of the old jambs on my home-made straight line jig. Had about 66" in length, so i cut 2 1/4" from each edge on the straight line jig. On each of the 66" long pieces, i marked the location for miter cuts to keep as close to continuous grain as i could. With that much width, i was able to simply pocket screw the corners to show her my idea (no glue at all). Picture below doesn't do it justice, and she loves it just like it is. (in the photo, the frame is just laid over the picture so she could see it--but the fit was spot on.) By doing it that way, the outer edge is still natural and weathered, as James mentioned.
earl

 

Yes, Earl. That was the jig I had in mind...

Here are a couple;

Build a Taper Jig for the Table Saw - YouTube

Multi Function Table Saw Hold Down Jig - 136 - YouTube

Table Saw Jointer and Tapering Jig - YouTube

 

Don't know if this will help or is even in the same ballpark as what you're needing.
Cutting on the Band Saw without a Straight Reference Edge | Woodsmith Tips

 

I don't know either but it sure was interesting. That's exactly why I tossed the ball in the air, I never know what I might learn. Thanks!

 

How big a frame are you making? I have some old fence lumber I was thinking of make into picture frames and just routing out the inside to the size I need.
Allen

 

That's an interesting approach - I've never seen that done.
3 - to hold 5" x 7" prints

 

weather wood frames

If you don't care about the back side. use a pocket hole attachment or biscuits

 

Barn Wood Picture Frames Completed

I wanted to thank everyone for your comments and suggestions. I found them helpful. It’s great to be part of such a helpful group.

Here are pics of the project and steps.
View attachment 76442

Given that the object was to preserve and show as much of the barn wood I decided to make the sides 3”.

I removed the nails and laid out the rough pieces on the back side of the stock. I used a cross cut sled to rough cross cut all the pieces. I used the straightest edge of each piece to register against the back of the sled.

Next, I marked the stock for a 3.125” rip and used the sled pictured to rip the stock preserving one original edge, to be on the outside of the picture frames when completed and the straight cut edge could be marked and be the reference edge when cutting the half-lap joints.
View attachment 76434

I cut a 4.5” x 5.5” gauge that would be the open area of the frames and could then lay out the four pieces of each frame to a) trim to final length and b) to mark for the joinery.

Used a dado set to creep up on the fit of the joints.
View attachment 76474

I cut the .25 x .312 rabbit on the router table.
View attachment 76458

Glued it all together. On all the cut edges I used a couple of things to “age” the wood. I made a batch of white vinegar and steel wool. This darkens the wood but doesn’t gray it. So I mixed up a bit of acrylic paint to make a gray and wipes it on with a damp rag. You can see the inside edge with the fresh rabbit next to the “aged” stock. Also the end grain showing was a 'new' edge.
View attachment 76466

I put the nails back in the wood at the end.
View attachment 76450

 

Sounds good Berry. The pictures didn't post. I would love to see them!

 

Reposting because the pics failed to post?

I wanted to thank everyone for your comments and suggestions. I found them helpful. It’s great to be part of such a helpful group.

Here are pics of the project and steps.
Attachment 76442

Given that the object was to preserve and show as much of the barn wood I decided to make the sides 3”.

I removed the nails and laid out the rough pieces on the back side of the stock. I used a cross cut sled to rough cross cut all the pieces. I used the straightest edge of each piece to register against the back of the sled.

Next, I marked the stock for a 3.125” rip and used the sled pictured to rip the stock preserving one original edge, to be on the outside of the picture frames when completed and the straight cut edge could be marked and be the reference edge when cutting the half-lap joints.
Attachment 76434

I cut a 4.5” x 5.5” gauge that would be the open area of the frames and could then lay out the four pieces of each frame to a) trim to final length and b) to mark for the joinery.

Used a dado set to creep up on the fit of the joints.
Attachment 76474

I cut the .25 x .312 rabbit on the router table.
Attachment 76458

Glued it all together. On all the cut edges I used a couple of things to “age” the wood. I made a batch of white vinegar and steel wool. This darkens the wood but doesn’t gray it. So I mixed up a bit of acrylic paint to make a gray and wipes it on with a damp rag. You can see the inside edge with the fresh rabbit next to the “aged” stock. Also the end grain showing was a 'new' edge.
Attachment 76466

I put the nails back in the wood at the end.
Attachment 76450

 

Looks good Berry. You preserved the rustic look well. I would like to see the pictures in the frame for the full effect.

 

Me too!

 

Good job, looks way old. The sled is the way to go on something like that.

Jim I liked that method in the video. Learned a new method, I will file that away.
Herb