Base for coping sled

1138 Views 7 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Alphonse53, 8 mo ago

GeoC

Discussion Starter · 8 mo ago

Just joined the group having started routing again after a long gap. I've bought a Rockler Coping Sled which I find really good but would like something which I can use to cut 150mm or 180mm joints for drawers using a Drawer Lock Joint bit. I haven't found anything that size so am considering making my own but would like some advice on what material to use for a base. Given there will be a slot cut for the moveable fence it needs to be quite strong so don't think timber would work. Any suggestions?

Save

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

TenGees

· #2 · 8 mo ago

I could be wrong but I think that the sides of drawers need to be vertical to make those joints on a table. So you'd probably need to make a different sled (or an attachment) to accommodate that.

Rather than using a sled you might consider just using a square sacrificial push block behind your work, to keep the job square to the fence. Hold your material tight to it and ride the block against the fence. There's a couple of advantages: The bit doesn't need to be extended as far and the tear-out is reduced by the block.

Getting back to your question: Phenolic or cast acrylic or would probably be strong enough as long as the clamp isn't too far from its mounting point.

Save

old55

· #3 · 8 mo ago

Welcome to the forum.

Save

DesertRatTom

· #4 · 8 mo ago

Welcome, and definitely you don't need the sled to cut those, just a sacrificial piece of MDF or ply to push it through. One piece goes through horizoneally and end wise, the other side of that joint goes through vertidally standing on end. You can buy a tiny magnetic jig to go on your bit so that the line on the jig matches the centerline on your stock. Much easier to set up,

Another hint: Lay out your box sides in a square or rectangle then number label each corner. 1 1, 2 2, 3 3, 4 4.You can use some chalk to mark the inside of the box. The numbers and inside marks will keep you from accidentally cutting the wrong end. This numbering works for either a miter lock joint or a drawer lock bit. It will avoid confusion.

Save

Reactions: 1

GeoC

Discussion Starter · #5 · 8 mo ago

DesertRatTom said:
Welcome, and definitely you don't need the sled to cut those, just a sacrificial piece of MDF or ply to push it through. One piece goes through horizoneally and end wise, the other side of that joint goes through vertidally standing on end. You can buy a tiny magnetic jig to go on your bit so that the line on the jig matches the centerline on your stock. Much easier to set up,

Another hint: Lay out your box sides in a square or rectangle then number label each corner. 1 1, 2 2, 3 3, 4 4.You can use some chalk to mark the inside of the box. The numbers and inside marks will keep you from accidentally cutting the wrong end. This numbering works for either a miter lock joint or a drawer lock bit. It will avoid confusion.

Thanks for the advice, the vertical piece is easy as the cut is so small using the Drawer Lock bit, the sled is good to keep narrower horizontal pieces square.

Save

jw2170

· #6 · 8 mo ago

G'day GeoC, welcome to the forum.

Save

DesertRatTom

· #7 · 8 mo ago

GeoC said:
Thanks for the advice, the vertical piece is easy as the cut is so small using the Drawer Lock bit, the sled is good to keep narrower horizontal pieces square.

My concern was not about keeping the horizontal cut square, it's that with a sled, you will have to reset the bit height. That is not fun. You need to make several extra pieces for scrap to make sure the pieces line up properly.

Save

Reactions: 2

Alphonse53

· #8 · 8 mo ago

DesertRatTom said:
My concern was not about keeping the horizontal cut square, it's that with a sled, you will have to reset the bit height. That is not fun. You need to make several extra pieces for scrap to make sure the pieces line up properly.

I'm envisioning using the sliding base for both pieces, although you wouldn't have support underneath at the fence for either piece because the sled would have to clear the bit, which could be dangerous. Nevertheless, the best jig material I have found is phenolic. It's strong, easily machined, and very stable, but it's quite expensive, so it's best suited for small applications.

Save

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month