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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am moving here with my question about making a router table top using templates.

As Ric instructed me, I used my 11" x 11" baseplate, using a 3/4" bushing and a 3/8" straight bit, I made a female template. The inside demension is 12 1/8".

This is as far as I got.

How do I proceed?

Mowerhappy1
 

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Mowerhappy

The 12-1/8" x 12-1/8" template you just made was intended to make a new baseplate only, and is not the same template I described for making the hole and recess in the table top.

These were two seperate questions with two seperate solutions.

Please refer my April 2 response:

I made a female template the same size as my base Oak Park base plate
You will need to make a new female template with inside dimension matching the size of your baseplate ( 10-15/16" x 10-15/16")

To make this template, follow the steps of making the template from the Router Workshop (without the 1/8" ** spacer) **Edited see new post see [urlhttp://www.routerworkshop.com/recesstemplate.html[/url]


Once your new template is finished you can proceed to make your cut in the table top as below, once you have positioned the template where you want it.
using a 1/4" straight bit or 1/4" spiral bit in my plunge router with a 1" template guide bushing to cut a 10-3/16" x 10-3/16" hole through my table

Once the hole is cut you can then proceed to rabbet the edge to achieve the recess as follows:

using a 1 1/4" dia. x 3/8 " rabbeting bit ( slot cutter ) with a 1/2" bearing and rabbetted the top 1/4 " deep. This left me a 3/8" wide x 1/4 " deep recess into which the Oak Park plate fits.

The resulting hole in the table top is 10-15/16" x 10-15/16" the same size as the Oak Park plate plus +/- 1/16".

I will post some pictures in the morning.

Hope this clears up my earlier post.

:cool: Ric :cool:
 

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Mowerhappy

Oops, I should have checked my notes. :eek: :eek:

Here are some notes and pictures to pass along to you.

Picture #1:
Shows materials and equipment used.

Picture #2:
To make a new template, I used a 1/8" spacer on two sides only of the baseplate, then used a 1/4" spiral bit and a 3/8 guide bushing to cut the template.

Picture # 3:
Using the new template, I used a 1/4" spiral bit and 1" guide bushing to cut a hole through my table top. Take your time and cut no deeper than 1/4" at a time, and make several passes until you cut through.

Picture #4:
Shows you the cutout I made and the 1-1/4" rabbetting bit c/w 1/2" bearing used to cut the rabbet around the inside edge of the access hole.

Picture #5:
Completed base plate cutout in the table. Note the addition of leveling screws under the baseplate to adjust for minor height variances that may occur due to any sagging, humity changes, etc.

Picture #6:
The saved template for future use, should I want to make another table top down the road.

Hope this clears things up for you.

:cool: Ric :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Template Help

Thank you for posting the pictures and detailed instructions. I will diciper all this and work on it this weekend. My sister is having a yard sale and needs my saw table and two sets of folding saw horses and a I have to help also.
So I am dead in the water for 2 days.

Thank you again for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Baseplare Female Template

A Picture is worth a thousand words. I was trying to make complicated something that was very simple!!!!!

I was trying to cut on the outside of my base plate with a guide bushing for what ever reason. Once I saw the picture with the "sticks", it was clear as mud where I had been wrong. I messed up a lot of 1/4 plywood trying the wrong way.

I made the female template as per visual and written instructions.

Made the table top cut out.

Used the indicated rabbet bit, made the daddo, too deep.

Will make another setup run and should be good to go.


Thank out. Thank You. Thank you.
Now, how do the height adjustment screws work?


Mowerhappy1
 

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Use 4 screws- 1 in each corner from the under side of the table. The screws contact your baseplate and are used as adjustments to keep the plate flush with the tabletop. View labric's 2nd photo. Notice the black plate is nearly flush with the tabletop. If the two are not flush, your stock with be stopped as you push. -Derek
 

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Mowerhappy

Now, how do the height adjustment screws work?
The six adjustments screws were put in as a precaution against sagging. Four in the corners and two in line with the baseplate hole and fence line, and are used to keep the baseplate flush with the table top.

Most of the screws are set below or flush to the bottom of the recess. I had to raise the center one on the outfeed side, as there was a slight difference between the plate and the table, causing the workpiece to catch in the table edge when pushing stock through along the fence line.

The adjustment works perfect and allows adjustment to any corner or center, whenever needed.

:cool: Ric :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ric,

Thanks for explaining that about the screws.

I am making two router tables, one for me and one for a friend. I have to cut the cabinet grade plywood on the table saw this weekend. I have to laminate the table tops.
I am using plexiglass for my PC plunge router base plate. Hopefully this will all work out. So far, I subscribe to the Router Workshop "way" of doing things. My son-in-law gave me a 4' x 6' sheet of the white stuff 1' thick. Also have a sheet 1/2" thick. So down the road I should be able to make plenty of fences and some jigs. I did buy the 12" wheel jig and I love that one. I use the wheels on a hay wagon pattern I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First Router Table Attemp

Just a follow up.

Attaching pictures of the results of all the help I did recieve on making my first router table. Made one my way and made one like the plans I recieved when I bought my table top from Oak Park. Need to put the doors on the base cabinet and the gray one and it will be ready to rock and roll. Both of them work just fine, just like Rick and Bob on the Router Workshop. I love IT!!!
 

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