[labric]

Mowerhappy

The 12-1/8" x 12-1/8" template you just made was intended to make a new baseplate only, and is not the same template I described for making the hole and recess in the table top.

These were two seperate questions with two seperate solutions.

Please refer my April 2 response:

I made a female template the same size as my base Oak Park base plate

You will need to make a new female template with inside dimension matching the size of your baseplate ( 10-15/16" x 10-15/16")

To make this template, follow the steps of making the template from the Router Workshop (without the 1/8" ** spacer) **Edited see new post see [urlhttp://www.routerworkshop.com/recesstemplate.html[/url]


Once your new template is finished you can proceed to make your cut in the table top as below, once you have positioned the template where you want it.

using a 1/4" straight bit or 1/4" spiral bit in my plunge router with a 1" template guide bushing to cut a 10-3/16" x 10-3/16" hole through my table

Once the hole is cut you can then proceed to rabbet the edge to achieve the recess as follows:

using a 1 1/4" dia. x 3/8 " rabbeting bit ( slot cutter ) with a 1/2" bearing and rabbetted the top 1/4 " deep. This left me a 3/8" wide x 1/4 " deep recess into which the Oak Park plate fits.

The resulting hole in the table top is 10-15/16" x 10-15/16" the same size as the Oak Park plate plus +/- 1/16".

I will post some pictures in the morning.

Hope this clears up my earlier post.

Ric

 

[labric]

Mowerhappy

Oops, I should have checked my notes.

Here are some notes and pictures to pass along to you.

Picture #1:
Shows materials and equipment used.

Picture #2:
To make a new template, I used a 1/8" spacer on two sides only of the baseplate, then used a 1/4" spiral bit and a 3/8 guide bushing to cut the template.

Picture # 3:
Using the new template, I used a 1/4" spiral bit and 1" guide bushing to cut a hole through my table top. Take your time and cut no deeper than 1/4" at a time, and make several passes until you cut through.

Picture #4:
Shows you the cutout I made and the 1-1/4" rabbetting bit c/w 1/2" bearing used to cut the rabbet around the inside edge of the access hole.

Picture #5:
Completed base plate cutout in the table. Note the addition of leveling screws under the baseplate to adjust for minor height variances that may occur due to any sagging, humity changes, etc.

Picture #6:
The saved template for future use, should I want to make another table top down the road.

Hope this clears things up for you.

Ric

 

[labric]

Mowerhappy

Now, how do the height adjustment screws work?

The six adjustments screws were put in as a precaution against sagging. Four in the corners and two in line with the baseplate hole and fence line, and are used to keep the baseplate flush with the table top.

Most of the screws are set below or flush to the bottom of the recess. I had to raise the center one on the outfeed side, as there was a slight difference between the plate and the table, causing the workpiece to catch in the table edge when pushing stock through along the fence line.

The adjustment works perfect and allows adjustment to any corner or center, whenever needed.

Ric