Basic router table information
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Wow, thanks Stick - those really, really help and are greatly appreciated!!!
Sorry it took so long, been working in the shop with my new drill
Sorry it took so long, been working in the shop with my new drill
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yur welcome...Wow, thanks Stick - those really, really help and are greatly appreciated!!!
Sorry it took so long, been working in the shop with my new drill
want more???
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137 Posts
I'm always interested in learning more
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31,264 Posts
go to my uploads....I'm always interested in learning more
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137 Posts
Excellent stuff - thanks for the guidance
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there are many here w/ most excellent uploads....
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16,385 Posts
We couldn't agree more Them. Just watch the replies when someone suggests a dangerous way of doing something. Angie (Vindaloo) put it very well when she said her philosophy is to treat all cutting tools like they are out to get her.
By the way, welcome to the forum. We're all friends here so when you get a chance why don't you edit your profile and give us a name or nickname to refer to by so we don't have to refer to you as them.
By the way, welcome to the forum. We're all friends here so when you get a chance why don't you edit your profile and give us a name or nickname to refer to by so we don't have to refer to you as them.
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2,881 Posts
Hi Stick:
You'll quickly find that all router 'technology' is an attempt to displace the old oakpark baseplate. There is nothing easier, faster and more accurate than Rob's baseplate. I make mine out of the polycarbonate that's in old LCD monitors -- almost 3/8" thick, crystal clear and tough as nails.
In another thread we talk about price vs quality of tools. the only thing you get with these "tools" is bragging rights.
Allthunbs
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2,413 Posts
Ron, are these in all lcd monitors? Easy to cut and machine? The original Oak Park material seems to be difficult to find for some reason.
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Yup, that's the hard part that is the basis of all LCD monitors. Take off the cover by the back. There are clips all around, remove the motherboard and power supply, take off the protective and reflective plastic films and remove the fluorescent tubes or LED bars and voila, a pristine, machined to perfection piece of plastic, optically perfect and ready to be machined. I use Lexan for folded bases and this stuff for machined bases. In some screens there is a pattern etched into the plastic. I put this against the workpiece and keep the top side of the baseplate perfectly clear.
I don't use this stuff for table inserts though. I have 3 (or 4?) OakPark baseplates and have never needed to replace them.
Ok, several things here: I use the OakPark for table inserts. Never needed to change.
Harry created a clear lexan baseplate with LED lighting but I found that the lighting interfered with dust collection and distorted my view of working lines. with the new CREE LEDs I may rethink that when I can get back into my shop. With the clear baseplates, optically correct, I found ambient lighting to be adequate for most situations and didn't distract or distort my vision.
I hope this helps.
Allthunbs
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2,413 Posts
Thanks Ron. I too use the Oak Park table and inserts, and have no need to change at the moment. Just thinking for the future as that size of insert is not readily available if one day I do need to replace it. This stuff would be ideal for jigs and whatnot... and best part, since it's coming from a broken item, is that it's free!!
When I said the original material was difficult to find.. Mike checked several places near him that specialized in plastics and none of them could determine exactly what the base plates were made of. Since most of those shops supply the manufacturing industry, if they can't source it, it's pretty much unavailable IMHO.
When I said the original material was difficult to find.. Mike checked several places near him that specialized in plastics and none of them could determine exactly what the base plates were made of. Since most of those shops supply the manufacturing industry, if they can't source it, it's pretty much unavailable IMHO.
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is that so...
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