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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My workbench lets everything stick to it. I use a chisel to clean it up from time to time. I want a better finish for my other workbench outfeed table. I put several coats of BLO on it a while back. It has dried but seems to me glue will stick if it drips on it. I decided to coat it with Beeswax to allow the glue not to stick.

This is what I did. I shaved some beeswax into a jar I added a little Walmart turpentine to cover. I let it sit for a couple days so the beeswax would melt. I then added a third of BLO to the mix. I tried to end up with 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 turpentine, and 1/3 BLO. I applied the mix to my workbench outfeed table. I let it sit for 30 minutes and then wiped it down. I think I have ended up with a nice finish very smooth and hopefully the beeswax will stop the glue from sticking.

What do you guys think?
 

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Most excellent idea/process..

if you add Carnauba wax to that mix they will finish harder and be longer wearing/lasting...

Carnauba wax, sometimes also referred to as palm wax or Brazil wax, is a kind of wax that is made from the extracts of palm leaves. These leaves are found on the plant ‘Copernicia prunifera’, a short plant that is usually found in Brazil, especially in the states of Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte and Piaui. Also known as the ‘Queen of waxes’, it is found in yellowish or brownish flakes.

and a FWIW PDF...

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After I let it dry for a couple of days I will try polishing it. Maybe add some Johson & Johson wax to the mix. Thanks Stick.
 

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There's your Carnuba, in all likelihood.

After I let it dry for a couple of days I will try polishing it. Maybe add some Johson & Johson wax to the mix. Thanks Stick.
 

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You could always do a test piece first. That is a sure-fire way to get an answer to any questions you might have.
I think we often forget about that principle.
 

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After I let it dry for a couple of days I will try polishing it. Maybe add some Johnson & Johnson wax to the mix. Thanks Stick.
use a wool bonnet on your ROS for better buffing or get the cheapest car buffer you can find and dedicate that for waxing everything you have...

You can add Briwax, Black Bison, Behlen, Trewax and Mohawk to the list of acceptable waxes...
and the container needs to say contains Carnauba wax
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have an old Black & Decker orange with metal front drill which runs at 2000 rpms which I don't use. I have a bonnet for it. I think I will try it. I also use it for small metal brushes to get in tight spots which I cannot get to with my bench mounted wire brush. I have never used it with car polish so it has no silicone on it.

The plan is to polish the table the way it is after it dries for a while. Eventually as I add wax to my cast iron tops I will wax the table also. I want to try it first with the beeswax. I don't know how hard it will be but I am sure glue will not stick to it right now. It feels like wax paper but a little smoother.
 

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I use wax paper for small projects and plastic table cloths like you use when you go on a picnic. Man that made me think I haven't been on a picnic in a long time. :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wax paper works well for me keeping the glue off the workbench. It is just a pain in the neck to use.
 

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I have an old Black & Decker orange with metal front drill which runs at 2000 rpms which I don't use. I have a bonnet for it. I think I will try it. I also use it for small metal brushes to get in tight spots which I cannot get to with my bench mounted wire brush. I have never used it with car polish so it has no silicone on it.

The plan is to polish the table the way it is after it dries for a while. Eventually as I add wax to my cast iron tops I will wax the table also. I want to try it first with the beeswax. I don't know how hard it will be but I am sure glue will not stick to it right now. It feels like wax paper but a little smoother.
too high of an RPM plasticizes the wax and turns it to jelly and you are also going to get clumps...

wallyworld has them for around 10~12 bucks...
 

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slow...
real slow...
the one have is 100~200 range... I think...
 

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at 1st I used my VS ROS and there is where I found out what happened at high speed...
turned it down till all was well... 1/3~1/2 speed???
then I got the 5'' car wax buffer from wallyworld and it was so easy to use that all of my stuff got waxed more often and better...
the more the polishing the harder the wax gets...
 

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the cheapest one... and one extra bonnet that hasn't ever been used in 5 or 6 years...

it's blue and looks sorta like this one...
small dia works way better than large dia...
.


2nd shelf from the top... (it's called a palm grip)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have looked at the small blue one at Walmart and it is over 3000 rpm speed. If fact all the ones I looked at were over 3000 rpms. So I don't know which one you have which runs slow rpms.
 

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don't know what RPM I'm at but if they feel 3K is good then it must be...
 
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I've buffed out several projects using my Porter Cable variable speed, ROS-polisher. Wide open, I have to be sure there is plenty of lubrication and I am moving at a reasonable speed.

Also, I have two buff wheels on my four wheel system and a Handler with two wheels.

I run high speed for metal, but try to stay below fifteen (still moving fast) with plastics and finishes. A thousand would be better.

For my ROS-Polisher, I used several different bonnets from Auto Geeks and move and move, while running over my babby bro's black Mercedes (no swirl marks).


When in doubt - SLOW and lots of compound. For table tops, that means water or oil with the compound.

don't know what RPM I'm at but if they
feel 3K is good then it must be...
 

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this is wax not compound we're doing...
 
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