I hope someone can help me with attaching my Ryobi BE-321 Belt Sander to the Ryobi BS Frame. I can't find any instruction on google searches and no instruction came with frame. Thanks in advance.
I have that same sander! I have never seen the frame before - but seeing your picture explains exactly what the two holes across the bottom of the sander are for!
Does that frame have an assembly part number?
I got the sander about 10 years ago from my late father's workshop.
Thank you for your responses. This forum is awesome. I think I figured it out though. There are two cross bars on the frame. The one further back fits under the handle no problem. The middle bar was the big problem. I have not used it yet but the BS fits very nicely in the frame. The problem is there is a shaft hole in the sander that the cross bar will go through. The problem is the cross bar has to be totally dismantled, the bar nut removed and slid through the machine and everything put back together. The side braces on the frame for this bar has ball bearings loaded under pressure from a spring. The ball bearing will launch once the bar is removed. I was not aware of this for the first side I removed. I had a wonderful time searching my cluttered garage for it. I finally found it. I got it all put together. whew. I don't know yet about changing a belt with the frame on. That is down the road. You can find the Ryobi BS frame on Amazon, reasonably priced. Good idea to get instructions with your purchase if possible. There is a fine adjustment at the rear of the frame. Photo attached.
I think the purpose of this frame was to keep the sander from tilting sideways and digging in when sanding a large panel like a table top and leaving a divot.
I also just learned that I can snap my belt sander in and out of the frame. The center bar stay is the sander. Doesn't interfere with sander without frame. Haven't changes belt yet to see if that is a problem. Taking one step at a time. It is getting easier and more clear how things get done.
I used the sander on my glued and screwed table top 5' x 3' of Manganus wood (Ipe). It work great nice and flat. I could change belst easily because it can pop out of the BS frame. I glued in specially shape Kreg dowels for the Kreg drilled screw holes. Trimmed with a hand plane. Then used the BS with frame to start leveling out the bottom of the table. I used an 80 grit belt but I could have used a 60 grit to level faster. Currently on the way from Amazon. Finish the bottom. before attempting the top. The wood dowels leave a nice geometric pattern where the screws went in. I am thinking of staining the dowels turquoise as a sort of inlay design. Come to think of it, if this goes well I might make this the top. I am also thing of routing out a shallow inlay in the joints in the top and inlay some thin maple strips for a contrasting color to the dark wood. Learning from YouTube how to cut thin inlay material on my table saw. I will post pics if it all works out.
The table top came out well with the belt sanding sled. This is a photo before applying Danish Oil. Manganus or Ipe Brazilian Wood. Sanded to 220 grit.
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