While I'm sure others can give better advice, I would recommend going to Sears with a drill bit, chucking it up and turning it on. How much warble is there? I have a Rikon radial bench top which I bought from Amazon, it has way more shakes than I want, and I probably paid too much, ($299). If your going to do lay away, why not watch craigslist for a while? You can probably get an older, better model for less than the price of a new one.

Patience is a virtue, get it if you can. Seldom in a woman, never in a man!

 

Hi Jason

I like the one I have it runs out very true and is dead on I got it back in 2007 and the only error I had was knocking off the cross hair led light bracket but it was a quick fix item..

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im looking into possibly getting a benchtop drill press as my next purchase. I want to stay around 200 dollars but less is better as long as its a decent tool. i see alot of no-name tools in the 100-120 dollar range. Is there really that much difference in a drill press? Otherwise, im looking at the craftsman model 21914 Craftsman basically because I can go put it on layaway and make payments like i did with my table saw. any feedback on that model or others i should be looking at?

 

Thanks mate for making me drool over a drill press which isn't available over here!
As a matter of interest, what are the diameters of the pillar and quill?

 

The February issue of Woodworker's Journal has a review of several bench-top drill presses. The Shop Fox W-1668 won the reviewer's nod, but he described the Craftsman 21914 as "user-friendly and affordable". He also thought the base was a bit small, and suggested being sure to bolt it down.

In general, bench-top drill presses are light-duty tools, and won't give the same sort of precision or drilling capabilities of the better floor models. So, the choice really depends on what your expectations are, and how you'll be using the unit.

 

Im very limited on space. Im actually considering buying the ridgid floor model. Anyone have experience with a floor model drill press on a mobile base? Im concerned about tipping

 

Hi

Check out Deb's posted items she had the same concern, she put in on a wheel base if I recall , but it's best to bolt it down..

But you can bolt it down with two anchors and two small bolts that you can take out if you want to move it around the shop...also makes a great place for other tools, vise,grinder,bender,etc.

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HI

You can make it a floor model very easy and cheap if you want a floor model, just pickup two pipe flanges and some 2 1/2" pipe and just that quick you have a floor model. I did post how to do that back in 2007


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I also read the February Woodworkers Journal article and agree that the Craftsman or Shop Fox would be your best bet. They gave a "best value" award to the Ryobi DP121L. It currently sells for $169 at Home Depot. However, the reviews listed on the HD website from owners shows that this is not a very good machine.
I guess it all depends on how much you will be using it and how accurate you really need it to be.

 

Yes I did put my floor model radial drill press on a mobile base. The head on the radial drill is much bigger and makes the whole thing prone to tipping. I found a mobile base where I can set down "feet" and take it off the wheels for more stability. But ideally it should be bolted down. I would think a regular head drill press would be a little less tippy then the radial head on a mobile base.

 

jaydubya, if you have the room for a larger standup model... I would go that route. As already mentioned, they are much beefier, and have more capacity, etc. If you're patient, and diligent, you can find a good deal on a nice, say ~17" standup press that will have the power and accuracy to do most of what you might run across. Add a grizzly cross-slide later, and you'll be amazed at some things you can then do.

I had a small 8" Delta benchtop model that I used for years till I finally found a large standup model on Craigslist for ~$100. Patience pays off. Ended taking the motor off of the 8" Delta, then put a knobbed handle where the pulley used to be, to make a dedicated apparatus for tap and die cutting... works great. Check your local Craigslist for say, a month, bet you'll run across something real nice... at a great price.

 

Hi

I will say you don't need a floor model, if you bolt the base backwards on the work bench you can have the head hang over the edge of the table top, the drill press table top will swing to a 90 deg. so you can clamp just about anything long in place like table legs,etc.

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hi buy the best you can , it go's to what you want it for, if you are go to use it all the time you might be better spending a little more.I got a benchtop drill press and it just sits there i think i used it 5 times in 4 years.

 

Hi Paul

Need to put it to work they can do so much mare than just drill holes, a small lathe for just one of them ..small wood press for just one more.. ,mortise tool for just one more and the list is very long..

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What about......... GASP.......... harbor freight?? ive been researching and it seems that many of their drill presses get great reviews amazingly enough.

 

Will you be using it for woodwork only or also some metalwork? The available speeds then become important. Most of the little bench top jobs do not go much below 500 rpm.

 

I have my drill press on a mobile base I made out of angle iron for the frame & the wheels are are mounted outside of that allowing the base to sit close to the floor giving it a wide foot print. I have not had any tipping issues & can roll it back into it's space when done.

 

I own this model and my .02 worth is I am grateful to have it but if I were to do all over I would like too by up. That being said it is worth the money I paid for it and I allways seem to make it work. Remember what dad always said " if you buy the best you will never be disappointed" my main complaint unlike BJ's mine is not true
A feature I just love is the quick raise of the table and the digital depth gage
can you say Awwwwwesome.. any ways good luck

 

I got a cheap Eur55 bench model from Lidl as a temporary measure when I could only find 3ph floor models here. I've bought it on the basis that it will always be useful even if I subsequently buy a floor one and was cheap enough not to matter.
Bob's point about being able to swing the head around for longer stuff is valid. The more limiting feature is that the distance between the column and the chuck is occasionally not enough. However, for the price it has been great and done 99% of what I need it for.

Taking the time to make a long auxilliary table with a fence with adjustable stop and fitting an LED light and a depth gauge was very worthwhile. Neither bench top nor floor models are normally designed for woodwork and making a proper woodworking table for either is pretty much a must, whichever you buy.

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/20111-inexpensive-drill-stand-upgrade.html

I was always a buy the best you can afford man until I had to replace my British workshop when it was burgled. Cost considerations made me examine a lot of cheaper stuff rather than just going out getting Starrett et al. I was surprised to discover that a lot of cheaper stuff isn't necessarily junk and that a lot of dearer stuff is not what it should be for the price.

1. Will it do the job?
2. Will it do it as well as something dearer?
3. Will it do the job as well as something dearer if I made some modest modification?*
4. Is it accurate enough?
5. Would two cheap ones be more useful than one at double the price? (Different thinking but would two cheap routers enabling two different bits for quick swapping over be more useful NOW than one expensive one that I'll still have in 30yrs?

*When the Taiwanese horizontal bandsaws first came out they were way cheaper than the heavy industrial models that were the only other possibility. The stands were flimsy and the vices not much better, but fundamentally the thing worked. Articles in the HSM press soon had us all knocking up better stands and sorting out vices, switches and bearings, all for little money, creating something worthwhile, especially when most of us had been using manual hacksaws before. We soon got used to regarding the early Taiwanese stuff as reasonably priced kits of parts, that when fettled up, gave us previously quite unaffordable machine tools.

Cheers

Peter