[honesttjohn]

If it's a smaller cut you can also run the finish toolpath twice. Once in climb and then conventional. They cut in opposite directions. Eliminates a lot of fuzzies.

Also, I have found out - the softer the wood, the sharper the bit has to be. Especially with pine and poplar. Aspen Vcarves nice, but not so good 3d. A good sharp bit eliminates a lot of fuzzies. Try the Spectras from Toolstoday.com. I get mine sharpened (about $7) now, if they don't break, and probably change more frequently than needed. A smaller stepover helps a lot too.

 

[honesttjohn]

And sometimes you get a piece of wood that won't cut clean, no matter what you do.

I also have found out that (depending on the project) you don't have to have a completely smooth surface, especially if staining. When you wipe the stain it will lay a lot of the rough ends right down, and actually remove fuzzies in nooks and crannies if you use a rag with a small tool to go over it. An extra coat or 2 of poly makes things smoother (light sanding between the last couple of coats) too. And if you paint, you can hide even more imperfections -- just ask Scottart.

Don't be too critical of what you consider "mistakes". Others normally don't even notice, and the piece has it's own "character." No matter how hard you try, it'll never be perfect in your eyes.

 

[honesttjohn]

I also got a sanding mop that fits in a drill. Works somewhat, especially bigger pieces and creases.