You may want to use something other than MDF for the top if you have a high humidity.
Do you live down south (USA) ?
You may want to look at the highend plywood for the top.(6 to 10 layers on 3/4" thick plywood)
Gorilla Glue works best for me,little water and some Gorilla glue and it's done.
Plus it will give you some time to move it around and sq. it up b/4 you clamp it unlike the white and yellow wood glues.
Just a note**** you may want to think about using plywood,one 3/4" plywood and a top layer of 1/4" to 1/2" white or clear Plastic,(same as your router table base plate) it's flat and slick.( Smooth, glossy, and slippery)
One more note****take a look at the Oak-Park router table top (it's plywood)
"Made of baltic birch plywood for sturdy construction"
Thanks. Over 95% of the tops I've looked at including the one I sold are made of MDF. with the exception of CMT ( bad design) and JessEm which are UHMW but I didn't want to sell all my routers and mortgage the house...
I'm in houston, it doesn't get hoter and more humid than this not even in Louisiana. Sure miss CA...
I've always used Gorilla Glue. I guess I'll stick with that.
I just built a new router table and used the CMT top because it was the best design I could find for the money ($100.oo bucks)
It's great, it can be used just like the Oak-Park and use all the fixtures they make or you can take the bits out from the top and with the swing fence you don't need to remove the fence to replace a bit plus it will let you use up to 4 1/2" dia. bits and with just a little rework you can use the P.C. brass guides, plus you can use it from the front or the back by poping out the router plate and just turn it around and drop it back in.
In this way you can use the T-track or have a wide base for wide stock.
The port hole for the router is off set from the center of the table by about 6".
And the real plus it's Industrio Phenolic Routertop with Alum.Insert Ring
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